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Old 09-15-2009
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Backing plate options

When I bought my boat it was 100% stripped of all hardware. Iím finishing up the paint job and getting ready to start re bolting things such as genoa tracks and winches.

For this question Iíll focus on the genoa tracks. They are aluminum t tracks. The fastenings are stainless, the backing plates are made of aluminum. The T-track is in great shape, the backing strip is not. I know that aluminum and stainless donít get along so I was thinking that it would be better to use stainless for the backing plate. Then I wouldnít have to worry about much corrosion.

But stainless it heavy, so what are my alternatives? Solid fiberglass? Some sort of starboard? Galzinized steel? Iím open to any suggestions.

Winterhawk Restoration
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The track may be in better shape due to being annodized while the backing "strip" was not. Answers to the following would help......

1. Is the track on the toerail or are they stand-alone sections on the deck or cabin top?

2. By strip, do you mean that this is backing is one piece (or at least in long sections), like the track?

3. Will you have any issues created by using a backing plate that is a different thickness than the original ones (i.e. above headliner, etc.)?

A product like Tef-Gel will pretty much make your dissimilar metal problems go away - so what you have some flexibility with the material in that regard.
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Old 09-15-2009
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The T track is mounted on the deck.
Yes the old backing plate was one long strip the same length as the T track.
No issues with the liner, etc. I'm working with a basically bare hull.
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Old 09-16-2009
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You should be able to use whatever you want - wood, starboard (polymer) or metal. Probably not a bad idea to make the new one wider than a "strip" - especially if the boat is older. If the deck is cored be sure to carefully examine the deck for core water damage, rot, etc.

There are several threads here related to installing hardware and deck/core repair.
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WP,

You might want to use G10, which is a laminate composit material with great compressive properties. You can buy it in various configurations from MSC or McMaster Carr.

When I re-did our boat, I made up G10 backing plates / strips and epoxied them in place after drilling the existing hardware bolt holes oversized. Then I filled the over-sized holes with epoxy, let it cure, and re-drilled the bolt holes for the deck hardware.
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Old 09-16-2009
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Thanks, I was looking at something like this:
I've filled all the holes from the old hardware, after routing out the core in the area. So I'm ahead of the game there. You epoxied the g10 in place. Interesting, I was thinking of not fixing them in place permanently, much like a stainless backing.
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Old 09-16-2009
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Yes, FRP for a backing material has a lot going for it - I have done that for years

Quote:
Originally Posted by WesterlyPageant View Post
Thanks, I was looking at something like this:
I've filled all the holes from the old hardware, after routing out the core in the area. So I'm ahead of the game there. You epoxied the g10 in place. Interesting, I was thinking of not fixing them in place permanently, much like a stainless backing.
You will still need fender washers.

I have always been able to scarf what I needed from boats undergoing refits or trimmings from new boats. But getting a long piece might be tough.
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