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Lost Rudder

3K views 17 replies 14 participants last post by  sailingdog 
#1 ·
The rudder shaft on my Pearson 26 broke at the hull line so I lost my rudder. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement shaft/rudder assemblage?

Thanks.
 
#4 ·
maineman I had the same thing happen recently to our Pearson 26 in Salem, MA. It was on the mooring when the rudder broke loose (corrossion so bad it looks like something bit through the shaft) and we had a diver try to recover it last night but no luck in the murky silty bottom.

Haven't been able to find a used one anywhere...the guys at newrudders.com quoted me 1228.00 plus shipping for a new rudder and shaft. DR has one for 1500 with new bushings. Hard to justify but what's the alternative?
 
#5 ·
I lost a rudder in the silt under my dock. My diver buddy went down, wiggled it, so I thought he had it, I pulled the pin... WOOOSH depth charge away!
He looked but couldn't find it. So he ended up dropping a long line off the stern with a weight on it. So the line went from the boat, to the bottom with a weight, and then there was like 10-15' of extra rope down there. Then he started searching in circles using the rope as a guide. Search right around the weight, then slowly work your way out using the rope as a guide. He found it that way.

Depending on how deep the water is, you might need more then 10-15'. It might plane a bit and be farther away then you might think.
 
#7 ·
stainless rudders

Stainless outfitters up in barrie Ontario have had quite a bit of success fabricating new rudders in stainless steel.They are the exact shape as the original and fully welded where the shaft enters the rudder.Completely sealed it is very light or ballast it with water which you just drain out at the end of the season. Built like an aircraft wing and skinned with 14 gauge stainless plate, they cost no more than a new fiberglass rudder.
 
#9 · (Edited)
On most boats the rudder should be light with neutral buoyancy - it should neither float, nor sink, so letting water into it seems like a bad idea? When it is completely enclosed, there's also the risks of corrosion.
Not trying to slam your product, just sayin'

And.. consider paying for an ad on Sailnet

Stainless outfitters up in barrie Ontario have had quite a bit of success fabricating new rudders in stainless steel.They are the exact shape as the original and fully welded where the shaft enters the rudder.Completely sealed it is very light or ballast it with water which you just drain out at the end of the season. Built like an aircraft wing and skinned with 14 gauge stainless plate, they cost no more than a new fiberglass rudder.
 
#8 ·
Foss are apparently located in both FL and CA, or have moved, or something between the two locations.

Some few years ago my friend has Foss make up a new rudder, and I can only say they botched the job badly. Delayed horribly. Everything overdue, and the new rudder did not fit and had to be shipped back. net result? About a 3-month loss in sailing and the new (custom for them, not one of their stock designs) rudder never was right.

They've also got a strange "don't let our rudders out in the sunlight" policy that outright scares me. I don't know if they had a bad year or were infiltrated by enemy agents, but I'd never touch one of their products again.

Just one man's opinion, based on one very long and repeatedly disappointing experience. They couldn't even return phone calls within a week.
 
#14 ·
I'm curious, how old are these Pearsons that are loosing their rudders? I signed a purchase and sales agreement on a 1976 P-28 today and will be lining up a surveyor next week. The boat is in the water so I didn't get a look below the waterline yet. How concerned should I be?
 
#15 ·
I live in B.C. where we tend to keep our boats in the water year round (and sail year round :D ) but in the east where boats are hauled out for the winter I believe there are more reasons for this. Most rudders are built with a stainless frame in foam and glass on the outside. Where the shaft joins the rudder blade or where hardware is attached to the rudder water will eventually get in. Most rudders will eventually develop cracks and however small, they can let water in. This starts the corrosion to the underlying structure of the rudder. After many freeze/thaw cycles damage will increase and corrosion continues. Eventually, after a long time, and many of our boats are over 30 years old, the metal structure is compromised and weakened. When sailing in a breeze there is a lot of sideways force on the rudder and when weakened enough it will break.
Brian
 
#17 ·
I've sent a message to StainlessOutfitter reminding them of the rules re commercial disclosure. For the moment the posts can stand as they don't include web links or contact details.

Thanks for the heads up SD.

Stainless, you should read the rules of course but beyond that, it would be in your best interests to stay on good terms with those who you are hoping will use your services.

If you propose a product on a site like this you are dealing with a bunch of people who will question the veracity of your arguments and if they have any doubts the quality of your products and services.

ps - http://www.sailnet.com/forums/sn_advertise.php (its right up above you under "contact us".)
 
#18 ·
Glad to help where I can fuzzy one... :)
 
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