Cutlass bearing question - Page 2

ncapener · #11 (**permalink**) 10-09-2009

I did my cutlass bearing a month ago.
Similar, but less involved than sabreman's procedure.
I had one setscrew (hard to find under the layers of paint) to remove.
Borrowed a cordless sawzall to make three cuts (30 seconds per cut) and removed the bearing.
Cleaned the tube and installed new bearing with a block of wood and large hammer.
Not much to it really. I have never seen the bottom of my boat before or a cutlass bearing and including shaft removal and re-installation I was done in 4 hrs.

Sabreman · #12 (**permalink**) 10-09-2009

I like the Sawzall idea. But since I don't own one, I probably wouldn't buy one for this job......like I said, I'm lazy and cheap. Ok. Not lazy, but definitely cheap.

Like ncapener said, this is an easy job and doesn't take long.

midlifesailor · #13 (**permalink**) 10-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by ncapener

I did my cutlass bearing a month ago.
Similar, but less involved than sabreman's procedure.
I had one setscrew (hard to find under the layers of paint) to remove.
Borrowed a cordless sawzall to make three cuts (30 seconds per cut) and removed the bearing.
Cleaned the tube and installed new bearing with a block of wood and large hammer.
Not much to it really. I have never seen the bottom of my boat before or a cutlass bearing and including shaft removal and re-installation I was done in 4 hrs.

What kind of boat? I think on my boat and I think many other similar designs, the rudder has to come out before the shaft will, hence the beauty of the Strut Pro.

Having never done the job before, I did mine alone and in the rain in about 4 hours including a run to the hardware store for a large adjustable wrench because I didn't have a large enough socket for the prop nut but could have been done a lot sooner if I had one other person to help.

Northeaster · #14 (**permalink**) 10-09-2009

Midlife - I believe that the strut-prop, or similar devices, only work on boats that actually have a separate strut that holds the cutlass bearing. On the OP's boat, the cutlass bearing is mounted inside the hull itself, so you do not have access to the forward end of the cutlass bearing. The strut-pro device lets you squeeze the cutlass in, while still having the prop shaft in there as well, but would only work on boats ( the majority nowadays) with struts.

ncapener · #15 (**permalink**) 10-10-2009

[QUOTE=midlifesailor;530432]What kind of boat? I think on my boat and I think many other similar designs, the rudder has to come out before the shaft will, hence the beauty of the Strut Pro.

Folkes 39
Rudder has a cut-out that allows the shaft to slide out.

midlifesailor · #16 (**permalink**) 10-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Northeaster

Midlife - I believe that the strut-prop, or similar devices, only work on boats that actually have a separate strut that holds the cutlass bearing. On the OP's boat, the cutlass bearing is mounted inside the hull itself, so you do not have access to the forward end of the cutlass bearing. The strut-pro device lets you squeeze the cutlass in, while still having the prop shaft in there as well, but would only work on boats ( the majority nowadays) with struts.

I understand that and mentioned it in a previous post. I was just pointing out why there is such a tool in response to a post by someone that had a boat designed for uncomplicated prop strut removal. That aint the case with a lot of boats.

BreakingWind2 · #17 (**permalink**) 10-12-2009

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Dave

Sabreman · #18 (**permalink**) 10-12-2009

BreakingWind2 - This is an awesome photo log. It should be permanently archived on Sailnet for reference since we seem to get about 10 cutlass bearing removal queries a year! The threaded rod installation device is EXACTLY like the one that I thought that I invented! Very cool to see someone else do exactly the same thing.

I love the idea about cutting right where the set screws are and then threading a bolt through to break the bearing loose. I inserted a screwdriver between the strut and the bearing to collapse it where I'd scored it. Using the bolts is so much more elegant.

I love Sailnet

Int14 · #19 (**permalink**) 10-15-2009

You can use a clearance fit composite bearing, inserted on a bed of epoxy. Release agent can be put on the outside of the bearing to aid removal. Here is one on a new build.

The great advantage of a clearance fit is that they can be slid in by hand, and also that they are a very good confirmation that the stern tube or P bracket, bearinf carrier is aligned. Chock the shaft and you should be able to spin the bearing on the shaft and in the carrier.

They can also be machined to suit a range of bearing carrier inside diameters.

Int14 · #20 (**permalink**) 10-15-2009

If you bed the bearing on epoxy, removal is easy.

If it's in a metal carrier just heat the metal and the epoxy softens, it slides out as it is a clearance fit. If it's in grp with a release agent you can split the joint and it will slide out.

No need for presses, pullers or hammers.