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  #1  
Old 10-12-2009
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Which goop for bedding

I have done my search here and figure 4200 would be best for bedding all my hardware and other upcoming projects.

As my first project I had drilled a hole below water line and installed a drain plug to clean out the bilge, its a trailerable boat. I have had trouble finding 4200 here in town. I had a huge 10 oz tube of 4200 the only size I could find locally. When reading the back of the tube it said, the tube should be used up within 24 hours of opening. I ended up just applying silicone and using screws to hold the drain, to fill the hole and will do it with an appropriate polyurethane when doing other projects coming up.

As my schedule has me away from home all day only to return late each evening, I was hoping to be able to come home and add install a few items each night if time and energy allows.. At this pace i will have to open a tube of 4200 each night then throw it away.

With this in mind I am looking to order a bunch of small tubes of 4200 to get this project going. I might get one long weekend day to do lots of these things at once but so far the weather has not cooperated and the season is nearing the end.

Is there another product that might be a suitable substitute for my needs say 3m 101 or Life-Calk? Or should I just order lots of small tubes of 4200? Is a primer recommended?

Thanks
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Check defender.com for 3M 4200. They sell the smaller tubes. I find that they last quite a long time if properly capped after use. Sometimes you have to puncture the tube to get the stuff out though. For small projects don't get the caulking gun tubes as they're harder to re-seal.
Wipe surfaces with acetone prior to applying - no other primer needed.
Good luck.
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Use LifeSeal insteadof 4200 or 5200.
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Thanks Any idea of shelf life on these two products

I am going to order some of each and perform a test on the two different products. I know for a fact the life-seal has a fairly short expiration date on it in terms of a year or two while still in the tube. Does 4200 suffer this same fate?

If not I will just stock up on 4200.
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I'd recommend you read the primer on marine sealants I wrote a while back. Many sealants are moisture curing and will go bad shortly after being opened.
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There is no need

There is no need to glue this stuff onto your boat. Adhesive sealants are one of the biggest scams this industry has succumbed to. 5200 is devils glue and 4200 is the devils little brothers glue.

4200 bonds at 300 PSI and can be a bear to remove at a later date. My boat is 30 year sold and was beded at the factory with butyl tape or butyl rubber. Butyl tape has a bond strength of about 10 PSI. 80% of the iofttings on my vessel still DO NOT leak even thirty years later. You do not need a glue..

3M 101 is a polysulfide that only adheres at about 130 PSI, still to much IMHO, and is a far better choice than 4200. EVERYTHING will eventually need to be re-bedded so why make future projects harder than they need to be?

BTW if you seal the tube well 4200 will NOT go bad in 24 hours..

Don't forget to countersink the bolt holes in the deck slightly..
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ultraseal by 3M worked well for sealing the windows on my C@C 24. I used 5200 with little success. Just a suggestion.
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I used 3M UV4000

UV4000 is designed to bed metal to fiberglass. Rebedded most of my stanchion bases and deck hardware - no leaking and can be removed at a later date without a blow torch. The tube can be resealed without an issue. Have even used a year later without loss of cure or handling.

Andy
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UV 4000 is a polyether product which does appear to have quite a long tube life. Though not as UV resistant as I'd like to see, it does seem to last a while in the tube and may be a good choice in the OP's area.

It should be noted that UV 4000 has the same bond strength as 4200 of about 300 PSI. I have seen 4200 tear the gelcoat from the substrate before so do be careful in the event that you do need to remove these products.

The marketers at 3M seem to call anything less strong that 5200 "easy to remove".... I guess when you compare 700 PSI to 300 PSI it does seem "easy"..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jephotog View Post
I ended up just applying silicone and using screws to hold the drain, to fill the hole and will do it with an appropriate polyurethane when doing other projects coming up.

Silicone is extremely difficult to remove properly. It leaves a very fine residue that won't come off with acetone or caulk remover. You will have to sand down the areas where you have used silcone. Nothing else seems to work.
I suggest you never use silicone on your boat for anything
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