sanding teak

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by KeelHaulin

Teak is not immune to weathering, wear, UV damage or rot. The problem with un-finished teak (aside from decks and cockpit grates) is that when you don't keep it finished it weathers, dries out, cracks, splinters and in some cases does rot. I've seen many boats like mine of the same vintage that left their teak un-finished and at 30 years of exposure the original trim looks horrible and should be replaced entirely.

So please, let's keep the bashing of finished teak to a minimum; it really does preserve the wood regardless of what people might tell you to the contrary. A teak deck should not be varnished and it's lifespan is well known at somewhere between 20-30 years (unless the planks are 1" thick).

min eis treated ----is just treated gently with sea water and oil......clean and pretty not shiny and slick....

[KeelHaulin]

Originally Posted by zeehag

min eis treated ----is just treated gently with sea water and oil......clean and pretty not shiny and slick....

If that's what floats your boat... I prefer the color of non-weathered teak and the gloss finish on trim pieces like handrails, hatch boards and coamings; but decks and grates should be left to weather so the non-skid properties are retained.

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by KeelHaulin

If that's what floats your boat... I prefer the color of non-weathered teak and the gloss finish on trim pieces like handrails, hatch boards and coamings; but decks and grates should be left to weather so the non-skid properties are retained.

amen to the nonskid idealogy--i love that stuff--i wish my leaky teaky still had it there on her decks---but all i have now is the trim and caprails---and a cockpit well grate----oil does me well--i donot have to be aggressive into it ---works for me and isnt shiny to attract thieves lol......i love it!!! only shiny when fresh!!! and the teak and holly sole is left "untreated"--as it already has some shine----from use i believe lol......

[karlhead]

Originally Posted by KeelHaulin

My suggestion for use of a belt sander was only to remove bulk layers of varnish instead of a heat gun or chemicals (on large flat surfaces). You must not use a belt sander on delicate veneers or on raw wood. I suggest using a linear sanding method like hand sanding with a sanding block instead of a vibrating tool so you don't end up with swirl mark scratches in the wood; which can be impossible to remove without over-sanding (hence the reason I went with the belt sander on the coaming, it was quick and trouble-free). If you put swirl scratches in the wood you won't be able to remove all of them and it will always show beneath the finish.

Final sand with 400 grit (220 is just a little too coarse IMHO) before the first coat of finish and between coats; and wipe the wood with an acetone soaked rag before putting down the first coat to remove oil from the wood.

Absolutely correct. A Professional refinisher Never uses a power tool to sand teak or mohagony. Its ok to remove varnish buildup but when you get down to bare wood use only your hands. I was a refinisher until I got too old and many a time I sanded by hand until my fingers bled. A true test of a good varnish job is to step back 3 steps and smile. If you can see your teeth its good. With a power tool you will never accomplish this.