sanding teak

[QuickMick]

Ive got teak trim on the boat, needs rehabed (not annual maintainence), is there any reason [I]not[I] to use an electric sander and do it all by hand? ive been working by hand, sanding to the sandy bottoms and this may take the rest of the year!

[deniseO30]

if it's really bad, I'd pressure wash it and use teak cleaners a couple of times. You don't want to use too high a pressure and use the "fan setting" on the nozzle. it will save you hours, but I'd still use a sander. 220 is the last paper I use before applying cetol or varnish.

[mike dryver]

make sure you wear a mask as the silica in the teak may irritate your resp. system. and what Denise 030 said

[T37SOLARE]

If your removing an old finish, start with a heat gun & scraper, then sanding with a oscillating sander like the MultiMaster works great.


Fein MultiMaster FMM 250 Start

[KeelHaulin]

It depends on what you are sanding. Could you describe it or post up some pictures?

I had a difficult time sanding the varnish off of my teak coaming; ended up using a belt sander to get the bulk of the finish off; then hand sanded the edges and areas where the sander could not reach. The wood sands away quite fast so be careful when you get to that last bit of finish or rough wood.

[swadiver]

QM,

I'm just finishing varnishing all of the teak on my boat. A heat gun is a must if you have access for the scrapper. Always draw the scrapper towards you and lift up the gun so you don't burn the wood. Or, chemical stripping if no access for the scrapper. I start with 80 grit and work up to 220 with an electric sander (not a belt sander). It is allot of work but looks good. Good luck.

[pschoonveld]

You do not want to pressure wash teak or any other wood. People do this with decks (as in backyard, not as in boat) frequently and it causes the wood to break down and fuzz to appear. Here is a good article that describes what happens: Proper Teak Care

T37 makes the best suggestion. Heat gun to remove varnish and then sanding with any tool you'd like.

[KeelHaulin]

Originally Posted by swadiver

I start with 80 grit and work up to 220 with an electric sander (not a belt sander).

My suggestion for use of a belt sander was only to remove bulk layers of varnish instead of a heat gun or chemicals (on large flat surfaces). You must not use a belt sander on delicate veneers or on raw wood. I suggest using a linear sanding method like hand sanding with a sanding block instead of a vibrating tool so you don't end up with swirl mark scratches in the wood; which can be impossible to remove without over-sanding (hence the reason I went with the belt sander on the coaming, it was quick and trouble-free). If you put swirl scratches in the wood you won't be able to remove all of them and it will always show beneath the finish.

Final sand with 400 grit (220 is just a little too coarse IMHO) before the first coat of finish and between coats; and wipe the wood with an acetone soaked rag before putting down the first coat to remove oil from the wood.

[mitiempo]

I think while a belt sander could be used if you're experienced, in the wrong hands it can do a lot of damage. A small vibrating sander is less likely to do this damage. Finish by hand sanding with fine grit with the grain. A heat gun, again used carefully, with a good scraper will remove the bulk of the old finish first.
Brian

[whigmaleerie]

theres no great way to do it just get on with in many hands make light work a good quality orbital sander will work a treat, belt sanders are great in the workshop but on trims i dont think so!!!!!!