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  #1  
Old 11-04-2009
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wire type

Noticed the wire going into my running lights is all screwed up, ie the covering is shot, shorting out fuses..........

It appears to be some kind of two strand with a rubber outer part. I will assume the wire has a coating inside this rubber outer part. Note I am saying assume, as there is not coating currently on the visible wire itself.

The rubber part may be a sleeve, and individual wires inside, but if it does come that way all in one, does any one know what it is? I can find something like this

this wire may go in the rubber part......

marty
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Old 11-04-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blt2ski View Post
Noticed the wire going into my running lights is all screwed up, ie the covering is shot, shorting out fuses..........

It appears to be some kind of two strand with a rubber outer part. I will assume the wire has a coating inside this rubber outer part. Note I am saying assume, as there is not coating currently on the visible wire itself.

The rubber part may be a sleeve, and individual wires inside, but if it does come that way all in one, does any one know what it is? I can find something like this

this wire may go in the rubber part......

marty
I really couldn't guess what kind of wire you have now, but it really doesn't matter. You obviously need to replace it.
From my experience, the insulation on most of the marine wire I have seen doesn't hold up too well to the sunlight.
I would suggest that when you replace the wire with a good quality tinned marine grade wire that you cover the areas that are exposed to the elements with a piece of sacrificial hose or the equivalent.
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Old 11-04-2009
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I think the necessity of marine grade wire is questionable. Unless you have wires running through the bilge, or particularly exposed areas, the copper is not going to corrode. Remember, copper is a noble metal.
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Originally Posted by tager View Post
I think the necessity of marine grade wire is questionable. Unless you have wires running through the bilge, or particularly exposed areas, the copper is not going to corrode. Remember, copper is a noble metal.

Bare copper wire will last just as long as tinned copper wire. No question. You are absolutely correct.
I just like tinned wire better because it seems to work better when you are trying to get electricity to pass into it.

Why do you suppose the contacts on printed circuit boards are gold plated? Because gold doesn't corrode and will make a better contact for a longer period of time.
The same thing applies to tinned copper wire.

There are some things that are over priced and questionable when it comes to "Marine Grade". But the little extra that you will spend for tinned wire is well worth it.

But what do I know?
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Old 11-04-2009
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blt, can you post a pic? You will have to replace the wire, but there might be a way to protect it. Post a pic and we will figure out a way.
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Old 11-04-2009
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Originally Posted by knothead View Post
Bare copper wire will last just as long as tinned copper wire. No question. You are absolutely correct.
I just like tinned wire better because it seems to work better when you are trying to get electricity to pass into it.

Why do you suppose the contacts on printed circuit boards are gold plated? Because gold doesn't corrode and will make a better contact for a longer period of time.
The same thing applies to tinned copper wire.

There are some things that are over priced and questionable when it comes to "Marine Grade". But the little extra that you will spend for tinned wire is well worth it.

But what do I know?
Gold is like any other metal - when clipped to another less noble metal or exposed to element - corrodes or in case of finer metals - tarnishes (both effects the same in my opinion). Issue is being wiring exposed to the elements and particularly salt - a agent of conduction.

One of the issues with wiring in / or electrical components installed - in the anchor locker is the owners belief the water drains just out.

Cat-27s - heck every year I replaced wiring and lights. Why - it never drained as fast as it should have and no real protection was given to the wiring or connections.

Three prong approach.

Heat schrink wiring connections, furthered by actual heat shrink on top and dose it all with electrical rubber glue ... same way you would a bilge connection. Secondly - be ok using 4200 on the seals of the lighting and covering the connections at the light socket...
But protect the wiring - one of the things I do to prevent corrosion in areas I know it will happen. Soak in 3-1 oil or use Vaseline, then apply all the heat shrink techniques over it. Did you know that all of the tele and internet lines running across the ocean floor are embossed in oil.
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Old 11-04-2009
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Replacing the wire is a done deal, ie it needs to be done! I have a Y in the anchor locker to do the front running lights. Just was not sure what the rubber hose is per say coming out of the pulpit to the back fo the light itself. I have a pic below, you can sorta see the port light, but I will admit, the pic was not taken to show the light part of this issue a few months back. I can get a better pic of how the wire comes out of the pulpit into the light tomorrow. Its not like I am doing the work yesterday. Hopefully over the next few weeks. No races etc until feb. Hopefully will get out for a few day sails.....

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blt, get better pic's. Jody's post is good and is on the lines I'm thinking of. I think you need some sort of conduit.
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Old 11-04-2009
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Dennis,
I think the rubber the comes from the back of the light to the pulpit is the conduit per say, along with a sacrificial cover of the actual wire itself. Everything is pretty well corroded from IR/UV down to the copper wire itself. I can take a pic of where the wire runs out of the pulpit to the back of the light tomorrow, I was toying with taking a pic of the port light which is here at home broken apart and what wiring is here. but the reality is, its protecting the wire that is exposed from the pulpit tube to the back of the light is the key. The rest of the run into the anchor locker is easy to protect from IR/UV etc. Then I need to do the same thing to the stern light too.

I'm sure I will need some heat shrink, new wire, I may see if I can get 20' vs a 100' roll of the wire I linked above or equal from fisheries or west marine in a 16-2, altho it might 14, but looks more 16g than 14.

Then into the anchor locker upside down on my back for some of the work, on my front for others, pull the old wire into the locker with a string attached to pull the new stuff up and thru.......sounds like work, ie what I sometimes do day in and out......yuck! I thought boats were supposed to be relaxing and phun!....

I also talked with jody on the phone for a bit, so got most of what he said inbetween the phone echoing and my lack of hearing, ie literal lack of, ie 25% loss in the right ear, and 50-100% in the left, mostly high tones.........

now for the question of the day!

Why is denby not ignoring me? or me ignoring denby? ack!LOLOL

Marty
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Last edited by blt2ski; 11-05-2009 at 12:00 AM.
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Originally Posted by blt2ski View Post
Dennis,
I think the rubber the comes from the back of the light to the pulpit is the conduit per say, along with a sacrificial cover of the actual wire itself. Everything is pretty well corroded from IR/UV down to the copper wire itself. I can take a pic of where the wire runs out of the pulpit to the back of the light tomorrow, I was toying with taking a pic of the port light which is here at home broken apart and what wiring is here. but the reality is, its protecting the wire that is exposed from the pulpit tube to the back of the light is the key. The rest of the run into the anchor locker is easy to protect from IR/UV etc. Then I need to do the same thing to the stern light too.

I'm sure I will need some heat shrink, new wire, I may see if I can get 20' vs a 100' roll of the wire I linked above or equal from fisheries or west marine in a 16-2, altho it might 14, but looks more 16g than 14.

Then into the anchor locker upside down on my back for some of the work, on my front for others, pull the old wire into the locker with a string attached to pull the new stuff up and thru.......sounds like work, ie what I sometimes do day in and out......yuck! I thought boats were supposed to be relaxing and phun!....

I also talked with jody on the phone for a bit, so got most of what he said inbetween the phone echoing and my lack of hearing, ie literal lack of, ie 25% loss in the right ear, and 50-100% in the left, mostly high tones.........

now for the question of the day!

Why is denby not ignoring me? or me ignoring denby? ack!LOLOL

Marty
Go 16 gauge... and before buying huge amount - start small clip- and see where the corrosion is - up to 1 and half inches to where it runs the hull...you do not not want or desire to pull 28ft of wire if only the first 5 inches is bad.
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