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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 11-15-2009
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I get my jack stays from an industrial lifting gear company ,come with test certs and are much cheaper than from marine or climbing retailers .take them below when not sailing and should last 2/3 years before uv becomes a problem.K
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  #22  
Old 11-15-2009
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REI has 1" military-spec. tubular webbing for .36 cents a foot. It is easy to sew a loop at one end and loop through and around bow cleat then run to the stern. Comes in several colors - I use hot yellow. It is rated at 17.8K or 4,000 lb.
harbin2
Islander 30 Bahama
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  #23  
Old 11-15-2009
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IT is nice to end the jacklines forward of the stern, if possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harbin2 View Post
REI has 1" military-spec. tubular webbing for .36 cents a foot. It is easy to sew a loop at one end and loop through and around bow cleat then run to the stern. Comes in several colors - I use hot yellow. It is rated at 17.8K or 4,000 lb.
harbin2
Islander 30 Bahama
This prevents the possibility of being dragged. This is VERY important if the boat has a prop there.

This can be accomplished by having a termination point at the front of the cockpit - that was my answer. However, it occurs to me that is not easy on all boats and there needs to be another answer.

How about a stop of some sort on the jackline? A simple bozo ball or similar is not a good idea in general; most carabiners and snap shackles are not designed for a side load and will loose 50-75% of their strength in this configuration. A suitably sized quick-link could work, though it is better to have both ends releasable.

Of course, the biner sees a similar cross loading when it hits the cleat at the end too, perhaps worse depending on the geometry, so maybe I am over stating the problem.

There is also the issue of fixing the stop on the line. I think a double overhand would do just fine, though there is some reduction in line strength.

Your are all smart guys. Come up with an answer.
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  #24  
Old 11-16-2009
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While you carabiners are not meant for side load, if you're not out in a hurricane, where the boat gets picked up, and you get dropped from one end of the boat to the other, you're not going to be doing anything vaguely approaching fall factor two. While some climbing equipment (eg, dynamic ropes) will fail before, say, the human pelvis is powdered, most carabiners, even the nice wire gate ones which don't freeze up on ice climbs, are going be able to hold a human in any conceivable situation on a boat.

My bigger question would be making sure you had locking carabiners instead, nothing would suck more than going back and forth, dragging the carabiner enough to open the gate, and then falling, to have it fall off.

Of course, if load was an issue, and if you didn't want to be scraping a biner back and forth along your nice cabin top/deck you could make some webbing loops and just clip into those. You'd want to replace them pretty often, but they'd bend so that the load would always be from the correct direction, and they'd be a lot nicer to your decks finish.

Once again, armchair physics/math here, so please don't bet your life on anything I'm saying. Thanks.

-- James
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Old 11-16-2009
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Encouraging

All these thoughts have been encouraging (on the common sense and economic fronts). I don't mind spending money if necessary, but these ideas convince me that with some webbing and a sewing machine, I can have a safe system.
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The only caveat to sewing your own loops, as opposed to using water knots or the like is, obviously, but it still bears mention, make sure that the stitching is strong enough to not be the weakest link. Nothing worse than having your last thoughts before being swept off the boat "oh yeah, I forgot, I can't sew" (This is why I personally rely on knots, I know I can tie those and tie them safely. If you can sew, FOR LOAD BEARING GEAR more power to you. )

-- James
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Old 11-16-2009
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Not sure if it is the right or best way........ I took and put a U-bolt thru the cabin top, then ran some 1" webbing to the bow cleats I got from REI. I do not remember the name of the not other than a reverse overhand. ie tie and over hand knot, then run the end thru and tighten. Typical knot use to tie climbing loops. For working in Puget sound where I am, in 3-5' seas, this will work to keep bow folks on the boat. I am not planning on doing any off shore work in a hurricane or equal.

I do not personally have a sewing machine that is strong enough to tie loops, and if I did, I would have to trust my sewing, hence why I tied the knot! I trust this more than sewing a loop!

Marty
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  #28  
Old 11-16-2009
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I am also a climber- and I use my climbing rope as a jackline, tied to the fore and aft cleats on my boat. On my boat (Catalina 22), and probably many others- a taught jackline rests against the side of the cabin, not on the deck so there is no risk of it rolling underfoot even if it's round.

I don't trust the stock cleats to hold against a strong fall, so I tied the ends of the rope together at the stern to make a continuous loop around the boat. This way if one or all of the cleats were to break or rip free of the deck, I would still have a "lasso" around the entire boat.
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Old 11-16-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blt2ski View Post
Not sure if it is the right or best way........ I do not remember the name of the not other than a reverse overhand. ie tie and over hand knot, then run the end thru and tighten. Typical knot use to tie climbing loops.
Marty
It is a trace overhand.
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"Well, I just climb up to them."

by Joe Brown, English rock climber




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  #30  
Old 11-16-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post
It is a trace overhand.
Thanks,

I knew it was a something or other! been awhile since I climbed, ie mid 80s, but remember the knot!
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