Looking for advice on rebuilding my electrical system for cruising

[britsailor007]

Planning a 2-3 yr cruise in the tropics next year on my '92 Beneteau First 38s5. Redoing the electrical system is one of big jobs I am tackling right now and would love some feedback on my proposed setup before I pull the plug! ;-)

Here is the proposed wiring diagram



Planning to use the Victron 602 battery monitor and Xantrex echo charger to charge my starter battery since i read good things about it on this board.

I am planning to use 100Ah per day and looking to get 90% of the charge from a 200W solar bank and a wind generator. Am I being realistic?

Initially planning to use the standard 55A alternator and internal regulator that comes with my volvo 2003T. I have been told the max alternator I can put on the engine is 70A because of the 3/8 belt and the fact the belt also rotates the centrifugal coolant pump. Would love to get some validation on this. It is worth getting the 70A high output alternator with external regulator?

I am adding switch 2 to connect the starter & house batteries together if I need to use the house to start the engine. Will this damage the echo charge?

Still deciding between Gelcell and AGMs.. Any suggestions?

[mitiempo]

Hi
It's pretty late but just a thought - you could convert your alternator to external regulator to get more out of it , keeping the standard belt arrangement. I agree the echocharge is a great way to go. Go to this link for some good info on solar (it's on sailingdog's own site).
Brian
Solar Power on Boats | Adrift at Sea

[braidmike]

Depending on the regulator type, I'm wondering about the solar panels and wind charger trying to fight one another as most regulators sense battery voltage... I wish I had an answer, just a question. Currently I keep my 'tow behind' and the solar panels charging different banks when both are generating power to avoid complications. SPDT switches are not very expensive, and allow for lots of flexibility.

[wind_magic]

Fuses, of course, but I'm sure your diagram just isn't to the level to show them ..

[chucklesR]

Victron has no hot, am I missing something?

My 80w panel puts out 35 or so on most GOOD days (Ches bay area), your 200w might make 100, I doubt it. You've also got the wind gen, so you should average out fine based on the assumed 100ah per day. Get a good MPPT controller on both the wind and solar - maximize the charge.

The 100 ah a day may be low, depending on big draw items like refridge and whether or not you've switched out to low draw anchor lights and such.

Battery type is more about maintenance. I went AGM because I'm tired of acid holes. Some AGM's are better with overvoltage than others, shop careful and understand the abilities and weaknesses of what ever you choose.

[KindOfBlue]

Instead of two switches, look into the Blue Sea dual circuit plus 5511E.

[Waltthesalt]

I thought I’d sent out a reply but must have lost it somewhere. Completely redesigned and rewired my 70’s era Cal, big job. I use a 80AH start batt and 330AH house. You’ve got modern wiring and looks like you only need to focus on add–ons so I’ll spare those details. Charlie Wing’s book is a good reference for this kind of job and will answer a lot of your questions. It also includes all the relevant ABYC standards. Nigel Calder’s pretty good especially being up to dater on current gear. The Blue Seas catalog also has a lot of helpful info.
You might at least want to have the bilge pump and anchor light direct to the batt with their own switch and fuse/breaker so you can leave them on with house power off when you leave the boat. For my rewire I also made a third distro system for my vital loads.. navigation radio, running lights. It can be powered power from either bank and if I have a house power fault or want it off to save amps I have what need to safely run the boat with the house breaker switch/breaker open.
One other thing you may want to think about that was to split my lighting into two separate circuits so each cabin area has at least one light if a circuit’s down… it’s happened. (Actually I have a third... LED red lighting off the vital buss but that's overkill).
I put in ammeters on both the house and vital circuits with appropriate scales. Reminds me when I’ve got extra loads on I don’t need .
Two thumbs up for a batt. Monitor on the house bank. Not familiar with victron but as long as you’re getting amp hrs in and out. Gotta be rigorous to ensure that the monitor sensing point sees all the loads/charging. Besides seeing Amp hrs out the monitor helps to keep the diesel form running unnecessarily when you charging rate is within the capacity you solar/wind generators. Your manual should have all of this info. I got my monitor from Bogart Engineering and they had loads of general tech info on their website if you’re interested.
Most newer systems do what you’re doing in terms pf batt bank switches. Instead of “A”, “B”, Both they have one switch for house and one for engine power. I used a Blue Sea se unit thier cross connect switch from the house bank, before the house switch and to the engine loads downstream of the starting bank switch. This is instead of cross connecting the battery banks.
I ran a separate breaker from the house bank to the inverter because it’s such a large load.
I use two alternators, a 35 amp for the starting battery with a dumb regulator and a 70 amp for the house battery with a smart regulator. I did this by putting a second pulley or power take off (PTO) on the front of the engine to drive the second alternator. Most engine manufacturers can sell you one for your engine.
It’s not clear how you’re charging two banks with one alternator unless your alternator has independent outlets. I think Balmar makes a device for this… a duo-charge. Otherwise I’d put in a voltage sensing relay between the house and start battery to charge the starting batt. through the house battery.
I think the most cost effective batteries remain the basic lead acid. With a Batt monitor you shoud have an edge on making them last.
Good luck!

[mitiempo]

Walt
He's planning on an Echocharge to charge the start bank.
Brian

[tager]

I would go ahead and make a more detailed diagram before plunging into this. Having participated in a few electronics labs, I have to say that it is worth your time to have a very well developed plan. Otherwise your wiring may end up something like thereifixedit.com

[midnightsailor]

I just did an alternator upgrade for a customers Volvo 2003. I was able to go with the Aquamax 100 amp alternator and the SMR-12 smart regulator. This is the largest I found I could go and still stay with the standard stock pulley and belt. This is working great with adequate power and no slipping of belt . Go to Electromax Products. and see the FM-12-100 and SMR-12 regulator, works with single 3/8 belt/pulley. Real nice products and less money than Balmar. Rick