Windlass Advise (Please)

dave6330 · #1 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

OK - so I've removed the inoperative manual windlass from our new (1979) sailboat and am in the process of attempting to troubleshoot it. In the event I am unable to repair it, I'll be looking to replace the windlass before next sailing season. Since our first boat didn't even have a windlass, this is new territory for me.

If I were to replace the windlass with another manual, say a Lofrans Royal (easiest install and close to like-item replacement for the one I'm working on), just how long does it take to pull up an anchor with one of these things?

If I were to replace it with an electric, say a Lewmars 1000 pro series I have the electrical stuff to work out. Since we always have the engine running when we drop and retrieve the anchor, can't I wire it directly into the main battery bank (well, thru a circuit breaker at the main DC power panel) without fear of overusing the batteries?

Recommendations? Advise? Deadly pitfalls? Both options run about a thousand bucks so I don't want to go down the wrong rode (sorry about the pun - I couldn't resist).

V/R

Dave Allen
S/V Polaris

Stillraining · #2 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

Hi Dave:

I can only comment on the electric..

Yes you go directly to the battery but not through the panel the amperage's are to large...you will most likely have say a large 150 amp in line fuse close to the battery and another automatic resetting smaller one right at the windless. This is how one of my boats is wired..I have never popped the large fuse but the automatic resettable one will trip every once in a while if conditions are right..it resets itself in less then one minute.

All I have to say as far as choice is that it sure is nice to be able to drop or raise the anchor from the cockpit or at the bow by a child or your lady...and we find ourselves way more willing to pick up and move for what ever reason.

labatt · #3 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

We use a manual windlass on our Passport 40 (and get laughed at all the time for it). Since my wife won't let me replace it with an electric windlass, she's the one who has to pull the anchor up. Anyway, she pulls the chain up by hand as I follow the anchor path, and then only uses the windlass to break the anchor free of the ground, and for the last few feet into the roller. It works well!

dave6330 · #4 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

So you ran a wire directly from the batteries to the windlass via a couple of breakers? That doesn't sound too painful. Why put the resettable one up front instead of in the vicinity of the main electric pannels though? Isn't there a danger of forgetting to shut it off and leaving the power on? I'm thinking that if the breaker (even if I had to install a separate, dedicated breaker switch) somewhere near the main pannel, it would be easier to check.

donradclife · #5 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

The electric windlass is a great upgrade--people who claim to enjoy cranking up the anchor on a manual windlass are just plain wierd. However, you will need to install a breaker and run some serious wires from your batteries to the windlass, which will cost you about $8/ft, so the electric install could be nearly as much as the windlass itself.

dave6330 · #6 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

Labatt: We had mostly nylon rode on our first boat and no windlass. I pulled it by hand - not easy but do-able. Polaris has chain rode and I'm afraid it might be a little taxing to try to pull it by hand. Do you have all-chain rode on your Passport?

Stillraining · #7 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by dave6330

So you ran a wire directly from the batteries to the windlass via a couple of breakers? That doesn't sound too painful. Why put the resettable one up front instead of in the vicinity of the main electric pannels though? Isn't there a danger of forgetting to shut it off and leaving the power on? I'm thinking that if the breaker (even if I had to install a separate, dedicated breaker switch) somewhere near the main pannel, it would be easier to check.

The only shut off to the windless is the main battery switch..if it is on the windless is always ready to deploy..the kind of switching for a windless is trouble free and inherently safe ..there is no need to have the power switched off to it.

The reason for a smaller breaker right at the windless is to protect your wiring ..you may get some wire damage before the big one blows as it is for catastrophic failure protection not maximum intermittent high usage loads which is when our resettable fuse pops letting us know we are pushing the working limits of the windless...the closer to the draw source the less heat build up.

KeelHaulin · #8 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

What type of windlass is your existing unit? I'm guessing a Simpson-Lawrence?

Stillraining · #9 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

Dave I like your signiture line by the way.

erps · #10 (**permalink**) 11-17-2009

You will want to determine how many amps your windlass draws and then consult some wiring charts to determine how big of cable you'll need to run the distance from your battery. If the distances start getting too long, it can be more economical to install a battery closer to the windlass instead of buying all that heavy guage cable. Just a thought.