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  #21  
Old 11-23-2009
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Excellent info everyone. Thanks to your help, I feel more than confident about taking on this project. Time to remove that old bottom paint and see what lies beneath! Can anyone recommend a soda blaster in the Philadelphia area? How about a moisture meter?
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  #22  
Old 11-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrybas View Post
How about a moisture meter?

Read this: The Electrophysics CT-33 Moisture Meter

This is about where you want to see your hull readings. Any reading under 7 or so, on this particular meter, is in the proper range for barrier coating. Interlux wants to see moisture content under .5% if you call them and ask tech support. They say "Hull must be dry." in their literature but then don't really define it unless you call and ask..

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 11-23-2009 at 10:25 PM.
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  #23  
Old 11-23-2009
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Mrybas -
I'll PM you in a second. I have been talking to a couple of soda blasters in the Phila area -- at least one of whom seems reasonably priced. Maybe we can talk tomorrow.
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Old 11-25-2009
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If you soda blast; be sure you pressure wash the hull after and sand it smooth. The pitting that soda or sandblasting leaves can cause further blistering if it is not sanded off. One way to prevent this is to blast it down until only a thin layer of paint (primer) is left on the hull and then sand that off to get down to gelcoat.

I used straight epoxy to barrier coat; a bit more difficult to apply (limited working time and must change rollers) but once you get a thick film it is more water resistant than the barrier coat paint. You can go to MAS Epoxies website for info on how to do a barrier coat with epoxy. For fairing blisters you can thicken epoxy with silica, microballoons, and glass fiber; again go to MAS website for a recipe. Sand it flat 24-48 hours after it sets or it will be difficult to sand smooth after the epoxy fully cures.
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Old 11-25-2009
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Properly done, sodablasting should remove the paint but not pit the surface...

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Originally Posted by KeelHaulin View Post
If you soda blast; be sure you pressure wash the hull after and sand it smooth. The pitting that soda or sandblasting leaves can cause further blistering if it is not sanded off. One way to prevent this is to blast it down until only a thin layer of paint (primer) is left on the hull and then sand that off to get down to gelcoat.

I used straight epoxy to barrier coat; a bit more difficult to apply (limited working time and must change rollers) but once you get a thick film it is more water resistant than the barrier coat paint. You can go to MAS Epoxies website for info on how to do a barrier coat with epoxy. For fairing blisters you can thicken epoxy with silica, microballoons, and glass fiber; again go to MAS website for a recipe. Sand it flat 24-48 hours after it sets or it will be difficult to sand smooth after the epoxy fully cures.
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  #26  
Old 11-25-2009
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2009
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Originally Posted by kitejunkie View Post
to yeild the full benefit of a barrier coat, as opposed to multiple layers, as one one molecularly "thick" coat is better than a bunch of molecularly thin coats. Not to mention the time factor for one coat to cure plus the sanding/blush removal, fuggettaboutit. this also holds true through the application of bottom coat to new barrier coat, although I'm not sure it really matters between bottom coats after first bottom coat goes on new barrier.
If you are referring to epoxy barrier coating; it is done in the same manner that paint barrier coating is. You apply multiple hot coats of epoxy with a roller; then tie-coat it with one coat of barrier coat paint. I put 6 coats of straight non-blushing epoxy on and it yielded a ~1/32" film of solid epoxy.

SD-

Was talking about the pitting on a microscopic level; a sanded finish won't leave pitting and porosity in the gelcoat like a blasted finish will. That's why sanding after blasting would be a good idea.
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Old 11-25-2009
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chef, great photo documentary there after seeing your post it occured to me that you were docked behind me at balt city dock this past weekend, beatutifull boat btw. great weather, and a hell of a sail outta there late sunday night, my son was sound asleep below while I took a beating sailing back to middle river.
Double thanks KJ, it was a great weekend, I consider myself very lucky to have had such great weather We enjoyed a perfect sail out the river into Rock Creek. I wanted to keep going but we had to get back home. What boat are you sailing? You were in front of us...cool, wish I had known, would have offered you a brew

(Please excuse the off topic post )
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Old 11-25-2009
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  #30  
Old 11-30-2009
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So after getting 3 quotes in the neighborhood of $2,000 to have the old bottom paint removed via soda blasting, I decided to see how much effort was required to remove it by hand. So I headed to the boat shed with belt sander, orbital sander, scraper, and razorblades in tow. To my surprise, my first weapon of choice (home depot hand scraper) removed the two old layers of blue and red bottom paint without too much protest. I guess it took about 40 minutes to remove a 3'x3' area....which leads me to believe I could strip the whole thing in 3-4 long days. Verdict: Crank up the IPod and start scraping- $2,000 will come in handy else where!
This leads me to the discovery that I made during my foray into the bottom paint: Blisters....and lots of them, albeit tiny. The 3'x3' area I uncovered was the texture of a golf ball in reverse (maybe not quite the frequency of bumps but about the size, maybe slightly smaller). When applying pressure with my finger nail, some of the blisters would emit a tiny amount of clear liquid (almost unable to be seen with the naked eye.) If it turns out that the entire bottom is covered with blisters (imagine golf-ball-like gelcoat), what course of action should I take? Sand the gelcoat smooth until all blisters are popped and then take moisture readings until satisfactory, then barrier coat?
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