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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2009
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Maine, your webpages are incredible. I'd still have a lot of trepidation doing this myself, but the install looks great.
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Old 12-02-2009
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The Blakes are all through hull fitting. It was their suggestion of a 'wooden pad' on the website that made us think of plastic instead of the wood:



I had assumed that they recommended the wood because it was softer than the GRP and allowed some movement. I will write and ask them now about GRP or plastic or wood...

Richard
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Old 12-15-2009
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old seacocks

This information is very useful. My main question about our seacocks is weither they can be left the way they are. Right now there is a wood backing plate between the hull and the locking nut then the seacock in screwed onto the end of the thru hull. There is a gap of about 1 1/2 inches between the locking nut and the flange of the seacock. Is going to be strong as is?
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Old 12-15-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Plastic cutting board, Starboard and many of the plastics in this family do not like anything to stick to them and they do not stick well to sealants.
I used starboard in installing the chartplotter at the helm and glued two pieces of starboard together with gorilla glue. It's been two years and the glue is holding fine...not sure if I would trust it for a thru hull though.
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Old 12-15-2009
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Seafoam
The proper way to have installed your seacocks would have been to cut the threaded portion on the through hull to eliminate most of that gap, making sure there is enough thread to tighten the seacock on the threads with a bit left over. The higher it extends inside the hull the more leverage to break it if something heavy falls against it. I`d sleep better with the thread reduced maybe one and a quarter inches. It is fairly normal but not really right. Shortcuts were taken with many older boats - gate valves were common, through hulls were seldom bolted in and thread was left exposed like yours. The time to really do it correct when building probably quadruples compared to using a wooden backer and leaving the threads like yours and they produced boats quickly on a production line. My boat has a combination of ball valves and gate valves and these will be replaced next haulout with the through bolted flange type shown in Maine`s pics earlier in this thread. The small ones for engine intake are in a place they aren`t vulnerable but the head outlet under the v-berth is a gate valve sticking up a ways in the middle of a storage area and is quite vulnerable. Another solution if you`re not up to redoing them is to fence around them so they can`t get hit if something heavy slides around.
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