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post #1 of 21 Old 11-30-2009 Thread Starter
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atomic bomb

HIP HIP HOORAY! After coil/condenser/points/plugs and 8 hours with a qtip and my carburator, my atomic 4 is now running and sounding good.
two new problems... i couldnt find the darn switch that lets exhaust/h20 return exit the boat so the exhaust filled the cabin on the test run. anyone know where that valve is, and if it is open and im still having trouble the next step?

also the previous owner had let the transmission/throttle control cables fail, and they need replaced. any idea on the best place to get these? my boat is a 30', so im thinking 20' should be enough to loop the cables under the cockpit from console to engine. sound reasonable?

thank you very much for your ideas, this place is the best thing going.

Quinn

How inappropriate to call this planet Earth when it is quite clearly Ocean ~ Arthur C. Clarke

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post #2 of 21 Old 11-30-2009
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Well

There should be a seacock to allow rawwater into the pump IF this was closed you may have melted the exaust hose as thats about the only way this should happen as there is NO out valve

You have to measure the cables as they could have been run many ways between the control and motor

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post #3 of 21 Old 11-30-2009
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After what tommays said, I hope you didn't run her for long.
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post #4 of 21 Old 11-30-2009 Thread Starter
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just for a minute

just for a minute to make sure we had her fixed.

How inappropriate to call this planet Earth when it is quite clearly Ocean ~ Arthur C. Clarke

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post #5 of 21 Old 11-30-2009
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The transmission cable has to be custom made. Kent at Moyer Marine has the phone number of a company that has made several for A-4 owners, and they've been given a big thumbs up. If I had the number handy, I'd give it to you... but...
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post #6 of 21 Old 11-30-2009
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Congrats on getting the A4 bomb running!
As noted by Tom Mays there should be a seacock that needs to be opened to allow cooling water to enter the engine. It is probably just as well it was closed as the water would have likely ended up inside your boat along with the carbon monoxide exhaust gases. The water pump should be on the opposite side of the engine from the carb, towards the back. Find the hose attached to the water pump and follow it to its thru-hull. You may want to undo the 2 hose clamps (there should be 2 below the water line) on the water intake hose and make sure you can get water to the pump, then re-attach. Your water pump will likely want a new impeller as well.
The more serious problem is the exhaust leaking into the cabin. Too much exposure to CO (carbon monoxide) can kill you. Locate the source of the exhaust leak. You may need to replace some of the fittings or the entire exhaust system. Read this article: Select a Moyer Marine exchange engine
Regarding the transmission control cable call Ken or Don at Moyer Parts: 610.421.4436 410.810.8921 as Mr. Sailhog has advocated.
Ka-ching, ka-ching (sounds of a cash register drawer closing on your money).

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Last edited by CalebD; 11-30-2009 at 02:57 PM. Reason: more
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post #7 of 21 Old 11-30-2009
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Another thing when i was watching the PO overheat my motor it had wicked blow-by coming out of the breather cap(LOT OF SMOKE) that went back to normal when we restored water flow

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post #8 of 21 Old 12-01-2009 Thread Starter
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after the introduction of so much marvel mystery in the process i only hope that the 'exhaust' was just residual oil from the tune up burning off. i fired her again, w/much much less of what appeared to be exhaust on the inital start. heck, she has been sitting for 3-5 years w/no tlc...

good point on the impeller, ive got a new one handy!

next question... found throttle cable to be good, just rigged to the seesaw style lever on the helm as opposed to the recessed controls... the control cable to shifter is the next issue. looking at the shifter it appears that the old cable has some funky corrosion on it, and the housing that leads it under the cockpit is fouled. what do you think? clean it up the best i can and run a new one? thats all ive come up with...

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post #9 of 21 Old 12-01-2009
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I would clean it UP as its a custom item ,Just spoke to Moyer today about it when i ordered some gaskets

I am taking a don't spend money until i am sure its BROKE as 1000 hear and a 1000 there pretty soon i could have bought a used diesel

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post #10 of 21 Old 12-01-2009 Thread Starter
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so close but yet so far

the problem is that when i climbed down into the lazz, i found the shift control cable to have been broken... shredded right through, so i doubt i can fix or splice that baby. can i not just order teleflex cables sized properly? looks like a 30$ solution vs. some custom job. more custom=more money.... lol....

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