furling line blocks or bullseyes - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-05-2009
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Why on a new installation would anyone want to drill, pot, and bed bullseyes onto the deck; when you can just slap the lead blocks onto the stanchions and be done?? There are some products that are worth a few extra bucks to save time, add convenience, and prevents putting new holes in the deck and this is just one of those (IMHO).

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post #12 of 15 Old 12-05-2009
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Originally Posted by BigZ View Post
... my Ranger 26. Travesty. Just wondering what folks recommend as far as the furling line blocks.
Start of last summer we put the Harken kit on our 27' boat. Very neat and simple. Only comes in 1", but I split stainless steel tubing to act as spacer for those stanchions that are 7/8" (we have a mix). When I replaced 3 stanchions on each side I ended up going with 1" because there seem to be no 7/8" parts around these days, although there are lots of old boats with 7/8".
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeelHaulin View Post
Why on a new installation would anyone want to drill, pot, and bed bullseyes onto the deck; when you can just slap the lead blocks onto the stanchions and be done?? There are some products that are worth a few extra bucks to save time, add convenience, and prevents putting new holes in the deck and this is just one of those (IMHO).

I agree. But there are bulleyes that attach to stanchions the same way that lead blocks do.
I have seen some boats where they have led the furling line over the top of the cabin house. I never really liked it much but for some boats it makes sense to keep all the lines in one area.
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post #14 of 15 Old 12-05-2009
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I've seen lots of roller furlers that didn't work well, and have fixed a few. The most important block is the first one near the drum, and you need to buy what ever kind puts it in the right place. The right place is that under tension the line is exactly centered on the drum perpendicular to the axis. The farther away you can locate this block from the drum the better. The reason for this is the line will level wind much better in this location. You get this right and you will be amazed at how much better it works, friction or no friction!

Gary H. Lucas
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post #15 of 15 Old 12-05-2009 Thread Starter
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The intent was always to use the stanchions or toerails as mounting sources, never drilling into the deck. I've learned not to bring a drill near the deck; it acts as a divining rod and seems to find wet core faster than I want to deal with it.

Good points regarding the first lead. Unfortunately I won't be able to put all these ideas to use until April when the mast gets back up.
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