Don Allen Steering Systems - Need help

[Bellita]

Hi.
I have a Don Allen Steering system that works as bullet proof as any I've ever had - with the exception of the steering wheel, which needs repair.
As much as I've tried, I cannot get the silly wheel off the pedestal.
The wheel is 24 inches in diameter and has a center brake knob, that when removed has a bolt on it about 6-8 inches long. when removing the center hub nut below that, it exposes the threads it was on, that seem to be part of the wheel and not of the central shaft. you can also see the square key, but really nothing more.
The wheel spokes have broken inside the large central hub around the shaft
that's why I need to pull it off for replacement. I built a little puller by taking wood pieces and placing them on the forward side of the spokes and used 8 inch bolts to run through another piece of wood on the rear side of the spokes, resting on the brake screw, completely unscrewed. Didn't work, no matter how hard I cranked down on the nuts to add tension to pull the wheel back and off the shaft, it just further bent the spokes.
I'm at a loss here... Can anyone provide me with information on how to get this particular wheel off so I can get it fixed?

Thanks!

[JVallely]

First, if you haven't already, spray the joint with a good solvent like PB Blaster--not W(ater) D(islpacement)-40--and leave it overnight or even longer.
Then heat the joint with propane or a heat gun.
Then, give a few sharp raps with a hammer on the center of your top block, right over where it bears down on the brake screw (if I understand your description right).
Pullers I'm familiar with, of the kind you get at auto parts or hardware stores, have a central screw, rather than bots around the perimeter. When you tighen it down and wack it with a hammer it usually pops. You may find a store-bought all-metal puller transfers the forces better than wood.
My Don Allen (I just bought the boat) wheel has a black anodized rim about 10or so inches across attached to the spokes--looks like it would take a belt of some sort. Do you know what that's about?
John V.

[Bellita]

Thanks for the info - I'll try it!
the wheel attached to your steering sounds like it went to one of the belt driven autopilots that can be screwed/bolted on near the wheel with their belt run around the item you describe to allow for enough torque to turn the wheel. does it have the width or teeth to drive a small belt? If not, I have no clue.

[JVallely]

An autopilot--that would explain it. Yes, it would take a narrow belt.
Good luck with the wheel. Careful with the heat on the stainless--you can turn it blue.
JV

[Bellita]

JVallely, your suggestion worked like a charm! Thanks! this was a pain to get off but at least now I can get it properly repaired. Look at the helm picture in the link below. if this is the mechanism on your wheel, it's definately for an autopilot. by chance is the the boat you purchased?
1976 Yorktown Sloop Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

[JVallely]

Yes, the wheel on the boat you linked to has the same assembly on it as mine. My boat is a 1979 Alajuela 33 cutter, though.
I'm glad you made out ok with the wheel. Maybe a little anti-sieze compound on reassembly will make it easier next time.
John

[Capnblu]

Don't put anti seize compound on a taper fit. You don't want your steering wheel to come off easy. Taper fit is designed to fit together dry, and to be torqued to establish a mechanical joint. Putting this type of compound on a taper fit is a bad idea, like using it on a prop shaft, or wheel studs. If you do, get ready for the failure. My father tried anti seize on his wheel studs this year before our little hunting trip, we lost 2 wheel nuts, and I actually removed many more by hand, after driving for about 800 km. His reasoning was also to make it EASIER, yup, was very easy to change tire, could have cost us dearly had the wheel come completely off. Like they say use the right tool for the job, but don't forget to NOT use the WRONG ONE!