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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #41  
Old 12-11-2009
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"Okay - but I guess you know what the REAL question is....how many of those did you win?"
The sad answer is 0. 2nd once and 3rd several times. Extremely difficult race to win. Classes are usually 12-20 boats. 7 of these races in the 70s class where the competition and equipment is first rate. That is me steering in the pic.
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  #42  
Old 12-11-2009
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Very nice, dude. Very nice. What's the boat? I'm still lousy at recognizing makes.
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  #43  
Old 12-11-2009
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  #44  
Old 12-11-2009
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To weigh in here on some of this:
-Tying the turnbuckles together does not work as the threaded stud on the shroud end of the turnbuckle is free to loosen and the windings of the wire rigging will provide the force to loosen it.

- Sanduskysailor is absolutely right that Ring dings can in fact get snagged and pulled out by flailing rigging, and it surprising how quickly a stud will unwind from a turnbuckle, at the very least loosing the stay and at the worst allowing the stay to come undone. That said I have used them for years and only seen that happen a couple times. If I sailed in an area where the conditions were routinely windy and the chop worse (like San Francisco) I would not use ring-dings. Here on the Chesapeake they work well enough but as I write this I am thinking that I have procastinated too long in making up a set of PVC turnbuckle covers.

-While I have used ring dings for years to keep the turnbuckle from turning, I haved always used cotter pins in the clevis pins.

- Have also sailed on boats that had the velco wrap pins. This really is a good product for a one design boats like a J-22 (although J-22's around here seem to use tubular turnbuckles with locknuts a set-up that I don't especially like for a bigger boat) or J-105 where rig tension is important and gets changed with some degree of frequency.

-I don't think that velcro wrap pins, ring-dings or cotter pind make much of difference once the rig comes down. Jettisoning a rig is a bear, but trying to un-turn a turnbuckle after the rig comes down gets nearly imposible. Whether you cut off a ring-ding, cotter key or a wrapped cotter, that is the least of the problem. The nearly impossible part is turning loose the turnbuckle body. I had to do this on a Folkboat with the stub of mast threatening to pierce the planking and it was incredibly difficult. I cannot begin to imagine backing off a turnbuckle with the rig down on a bigger boat.

The standard advice for offshore cruisers is to carry big enough bolt cutters to sheer off the standing rigging, but if you have ever tried to sheer a heavy peice of rigging wire even with a very high quality bolt cutter it is not exactly like slicing butter. Add to that the impossible motion of a sailboat without its rig, I am not sure that there is a good solution for a good size boat to jetison its rig quickly.

Respectfully,
Jeff
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  #45  
Old 12-11-2009
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yep no plastic but I did detect some wood!!

Mitiempo, thanks so much for posting that link to those installation and post use pictures. I am astonished other than that I have no comment.....well the word denial does come to mind
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  #46  
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"Very nice, dude. Very nice. What's the boat? I'm still lousy at recognizing makes." Nelson Marek 68. Other boats in class were all SC70s (also 68'). Pic- the N/M rafted outside a SC70 in the Black River
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  #47  
Old 12-11-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
-This really is a good product for a one design boats like a J-22 or J-105 where rig tension is important and gets changed with some degree of frequency.
Thanks Jeff for backing me and repeating what I said three days ago. You too Sandusky.

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Also popular with the racing crowd that adjust and tune a lot.
Sandusky, you ever do the Supermac?
Twice as much fun from what I understand.
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  #48  
Old 12-11-2009
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Many surveyors will flunk rings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
I've used rings for years since they make adjustment easy. There is a risk of catching them with a sheet (especially when I used the blade on my boat). I have not taped them since that defeats the purpose of using a ring in the first place. A favorite set up for protecting the Ring-dings from snagging sheets and sails is to make a sleeve out of PVC tubing. I leave the tubing open at the top and can slide the tube up out of the way to work on the turnbuckle and let it drop down when I am done. That said, I have never gotten around to making a set for Synergy.

I am also a big believer in backing off the rigging tension and putting lanacote on the threads of the turnbuckle to minimize crevice corrosion.

Jeff
A sheet can catch them and there goes the rig. Other posters mentioned the same. Not a AYBC recommend practice, but common none the less.

I am also sure that this depends on the ring - some are terrible, some are solid.

You can get away with the darnedest things. If well taped, nothing will fail.
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  #49  
Old 12-11-2009
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the shroud turnbuckles have locknuts on my 30 footer. i use the split rings with several turns in them on the bottom end at the chain plates and they work OK. has any one had this type come loose ?
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  #50  
Old 12-11-2009
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I fully confess to not using the product and going with the fact that everything Velcro i have ever owned has had issues with staying closed within 6 months of regular use and has turned many otherwise fine pieces of gear useless
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