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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2009
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Umm depending on how big the boat you could do waht I did on my c-27. I took the hose off, shoved a tapered plug in there, unscrewed it, shoved a tapered plug in there, ran to the store to get a new valve of non corrosive type and undid what I just stated above in reverse order. Now on hindsight if I had known what size valve I had there I would have had it ready to go and just done it all at once. Now a wee bit o water came in but thats what the bilge pump is for!!....LOL it worked and I didnt sink. I say screw the old valve (no pun) and just get a new one.

josh
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2009
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For heat I might use boiling water, it does expand metal. I've also thought of using a mechanics wheel puller or press. That way I'm not levering against the hull.
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Old 12-18-2009
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Degree, mine don't unscrew. One of them has little nuts 90 degrees off the axis. What are they?
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The little nut...(mine are screws)...are probably weep ports, or drains.

if your valve is like the one in Stillraining's picture, taking the nut out will expose the sidewall of the bung...you might be able to squirt some penetrating oil in there and let it work for awhile...

The previous owner of my boat, let all the spartan seacocks freeze in the open position too. I managed to get them all free over a few days letting the penetrating oil soak in for awhile...and then tapping...repeating the process.....

Spartan Marine Hardware Catalog

See the link for seacock maintanence
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Last edited by Tempest; 12-18-2009 at 05:39 PM.
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  #15  
Old 12-18-2009
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Those are called quick hauls and I didn't think of that, but it's a great suggestion. Last one I had was $125, super cheap solution.

I've heard of people working on the bottom at low tide. You'd be hard pressed I would think to dry it up enough to paint the bottom though, at least according to the paint OEM specs.

As for jumping in, I hadn't looked at the OPs location. I'm from the south where we'd never give it a second thought, it's so routine here. But still, you're talking about two or three minutes in the water at most. If you have a decent wet suit you'd pull it off fine.

I thought bungs are emergency soft wood plugs. I've never heard the term applied to a valve, but I get the point. The OP didn't say it was one, but assuming that's true, they are not so bad to free up. Loosen the nut, as a previous posted suggested and tap tap tap.... You don't even need to take the nut off all the way. Of course you have to evaluate how hard to whack it. What will the support hold up to is a judgement call. Consider also backing up the valve itself with a second hammer. Place a heavy hammer against the valve housing and tap the nut (not the threads). The heavy hammer just adds weight to what would need to move before breaking the valve off.

Do the plastic ("marelon"?) valves get stuck? I wouldn't expect too much trouble from those.

But seriously, the best option is wait for the next haul or get yourself a quick haul. My last boat was plastic and the yard let me quick haul before a lunch break and I was able to drill out and replace all three thru-hull fittings all together.

Can you put a grease zerk on those valves? I don't know what the seating surface is like. Exercise is the answer though for sure.

As for gate style valves (we actually use globe valves for thru-hulls, but the same general arrangement), the benefits are clear enough to marine engineers and regulators (designers, American Bureau of Shipping, Coast Guard, etc.) to require them in certified or inspected vessels, whereas their detractor(s?) hasn't offered a single disadvantage. Completely rebuildable, packable...

Remember that it would take a long time to sink a boat while working on a valve. The main thing is you don't want it to fail while you're away or sleeping at anchor. How many folks reading have a bilge alarm? (here's a hint for you: make a cheap one by soldering a float switch into the TEST circuit on a $5 smoke detector).

Tempest's suggestion to leave well enough alone is probably the best advice, but I know I could never follow it myself. It would bug me too much to know it wasn't right. Nevertheless the smartest thing would be to lanyard a bung to the valve, make sure the hose attached to it is good, or consider installing another valve upstream from it in the hose. Messing with it could cascade into disaster.

Good luck again!
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Old 12-18-2009
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I hate to sound discouraging, but I had the same problem and tried many of the above sensible tricks without success. The PO had neglected them and 3 bronze ball-type thru-hulls were locked open.
Propane was out at the time because of the fire hazard and plastic seals. Boiling water barely got them warm--too much thermal mass plus full of the ocean. A heat gun got them warmer but didn't work for me. So I doubled up on the clamps, put wood plugs in just in case and thought pure thoughts for the next few weeks.
Once hauled out for the season, repeated dousings with a solvent worked over time. A solvent means PB Blaster or equivalent--not WD-40. The latter is a great water displacement ('WD') formula for drying your spark plug wires. It's not meant to be a solvent. It's basically kerosene--not anybody's first choice of rust-busters. (I use PB Blaster on rusted farm machinery & old cars.)
So I'd just hold my nose and have it hauled. Make sure you have a selection of big-a**ed monkey wrenches on hand, along with pipe cheaters & propane--you'll need them.
Good luck.
John V.
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Old 12-19-2009
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Well in that case here this should help you out understanding what you have..IMHO best valve ever made. I tore all mine down when I had the boat on the hard the first time and gave them a good R&R.
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Stillraining.....yup.. I think I've seen that before!!....
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Old 12-19-2009
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Well, don't sue me if I try the simple solutions before hauling.
My favorite penetrating oil is Kroil. I once disassembled a shaft coupling that was featureless by spraying it all winter with Kroil. In the spring it came apart as if new.
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Old 12-19-2009
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Wanderingstar do have the type seacock shown or does yours have a bronze small t-handle opposite the shut off. if it does your valves are made of rubber and you only need to loosen small t-handle then work main handle to loosen. ours are from1979 and had not been serviced for about 15 yrs. all i did was what i just said and with a little effort they all came loose. after when boat was hauled i took the valves apart and lubed with non-petroleum grease. have worked flawlessly since then (5yrs) just lube when hauled. note when you get them moving water will come in the boat and you will see a bunch of crud in it. you won't get a lot of water just a little flow
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