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Old 12-19-2009
MC1 MC1 is offline
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I'd try the simple solutions before hauling as well, but I'd make sure I mitigate the risks with this job somehow so as not to sink the boat in the process if things don't go quite as planned.

There are risk associated with some of the cheaper approaches mentioned above. For example, if you break the seacock mounting to the boat by unintentionally using too much manpower (or if the mounting isn't top notch to begin with - e.g., screws were used instead of thru-bolts), or if you use a heat gun, and the heat travels through the bronze and melts away whatever was used as a bedding compound and water starts coming into the boat, how are you going to stop it? Do you have a contingency plan ready to go?

Maybe nothing will go wrong at all, and then you can tell us you told us so, and recommend it for everyone else in this predicament. Only problem is, it may not go so well in every case out there. You could be lucky, but generally the prepared have a tendancy to be lucky more often, right?

If you can just wait until your next haul, that might be the cheapest and safest way forward.

If I *had* to take care of this now and didn't want to pay to lift the boat, I might ask the boatyard guys to be on standbye with the hoist just in case, and do the work in the hauling slip during yard business hours.

Whatever you choose, good luck and please keep us posted on how it goes.
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Old 12-19-2009
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Mike, thanks. Two of my valves are Grocos as you describe. One closed after I figured out the locking handle (there was a little tag with directions, but I had to tear it off to read it). The other is still stuck.
The other stuck valve is a tapered plug exactly like those shown above.
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Old 12-27-2009
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OK, I got them. First some WD40 (only spray oil on board), later Liquid Wrench, (what was in the car), then tapping with a 12oz hammer. The all bronze one I heated with a butane torch (on board). It moved well after that. The Groco with the rubber ball yielded to hammer taps on the handle. Thank you all.
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