Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Annapolis, Md
Thanked 164 Times in 133 Posts
Rep Power: 10
This is the good and the bad news of out turned flange hull to deck joints. The good news is that they are easy and cheap to build, but very easily damaged. The other piece of good news is that they are not that hard to repair.
The key aspects of making a sound repair is to carefully assess how far the damage occurs in the fiberglass (it can often extend several feet beyond the visible repair due to horizontal sheering of the laminate) and to thoroughly clean out the joint in the area to be rebonded.
It will be important to cut away any delaminated glass and rebuild that area, ideally with an epoxy/fiberglass lay-up given the seconday bonds.
In terms of joint bonding materials, many manufacturers used an adhesive-caulk such as 3M 5200, but not all manufacturers. If the boat is adhered with 5200 I would use 5200 to adhere the joint. But some manufacturers used a polyester resin based slurry, which is not very ductile and which can be easily fractured and which is more difficult to repair once damaged. If the boat has been assembled with a polyester slurry, then I would suggest using epoxy when you reassemble the joint.
Some mfr's used either epoxy (rare) or higher tech adhesives developed in the aeronuatical industry, which can be nearly imposible to repair and which destroys the adjacent laminate when the joint fails. I'm not sure how to advise you if the joint was aeronautical adhesive.
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Curmudgeon at Large- and rhinestone in the rough, sailing my Farr 11.6 on the Chesapeake Bay