Removing rub rail - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 01-21-2010
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Question Removing rub rail

I'd like to remove the metal rub rail on my '75 Newport 28 this spring to come at the small -- though annoying -- deck leaks that I have. The other day while I was at the boat I thought I'd take a look at it and how it's installed so that I could start thinking about what I'd need to do the job.

What has me scratching my head is the number of stainless screw heads holding down the rub rail vs. the number of threads and bolts underneath. There are screw heads evenly spaced about every three inches along the rub rail at deck level, but looking at the underside down in the cabin I see a screw body and bolt with nut sitting right next to each other.

At a guess I'd say that the screws are what's holding the rub rail down, and underneath the rub rail are the bolt heads -- but what are they holding down/together? Might there be some metal/fiberglass "lip" that wraps over the deck from the hull sides and these bolts provide extra security?

Can anyone provide some insights as to the construction and attachment of the rub rail in this case?

Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2010
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are you sure the screw heads are just not Philips head bolts, that is how my boat is. is your rail a perforated AL toe/rub rail? that what my boat is.

to seal my boat i would have to unbolt the whole rail and lift it and put sealant under it, then tighten everything down. also on my boat the rail is what holds the deck on and the stays and shrouds are u bolted thru the rail.
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Old 01-21-2010
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My guess would be that the screws are securing the rubrail and the bolts are fastening the hull-deck joint; unless the hull-deck joint appears to be at another location. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Old 01-21-2010
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Chances are very good that the bolts are holding the deck-hull join together, and that the screws are holding the rubrail to it. Chances are pretty good that your boat's hull has an inward turned flange that the bolts are going through. The deck probably has a lip that sits on the inward turned flange and they're bolted together at the overlap.
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Old 01-21-2010
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"The Newport 28’s hull is solid fiberglass while its deck is cored. The hull-to-deck joint is on a narrow flange and leaks are not uncommon."
This from a review of the Newport 28 at this link: Sailing Magazine | Newport 28

Most of your bolts are holding your deck and hull sections together.
I wish my boat had the perforated AL rubrail instead of teak. The perforated rail is much more functional.
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Old 01-21-2010
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Huh. I have that article bookmarked, too. Shoulda thought to look there.

So, it sounds like my aluminum rub rail is merely screwed in place; good. And yeah, I noticed it's one loooooong piece of aluminum. Part of the pulpit and all the stanchions are attached to it as well. Sounds doable with a helper. Just want to make sure I've got a lot of butyl tape handy when I get going.

Are there any other waterproofing steps to take when replacing those screws that anyone can think of? Or will putting them through the butyl tape take care of it?

Thanks again!
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