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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 01-25-2010
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It is fairly exposed.
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  #22  
Old 01-25-2010
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I'd seriously consider going up to 3/4" Polydyne mooring pennants from Yale... rather than the 5/8" three-strand your thinking of. The three-strand has a breaking strength of 12000 lbs... or less than 2:1 compared to the weight of your boat. A 3/4" Polydyne pennant has a breaking strength of 23000 lbs... or a bit over 3:1 compared to the weight of the boat. With storm surge and wind, you could easily exceed the tensile strength of the 5/8" three-strand, especially if there's any chafe damage.

My boat is only 60% the weight of yours or so, and I'm in a very sheltered harbor, with a hurricane barrier to block 99% of the storm surge, and a fetch of less than two miles in the worst case scenario... and I'm using 3/4" polydyne pennants... but I like my boat to stay where I put her. Of course, my boat has a good deal more windage than a 25' cuddy cabin cruiser... being 18' wide with a mast that sticks up almost 42' in the air...
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  #23  
Old 01-25-2010
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I assume you've already checked with your harbormaster to make sure your mooring and tackle meets their requirements. Some harbors have very specific requirements as to everything from the color of the mooring ball to exact specifications as to what tackle can be used.
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  #24  
Old 01-25-2010
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Thanks for the info, I may head up to 3/4" line.

I have the requirements for the mooring, and I have gone 2 sizes up on everything already, so I should be good to go there.
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  #25  
Old 01-25-2010
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A couple of comments. (1) I used a single 1 inch pennant on my 7000 lb 30 footer. Much better for chafe than the 3/4 inch ones I used at first. 5/8 inch is dental floss IMO. (2) I prefer the swivel between the upper and lower chains. It doesn't work as much, wears less and is down in the mud most of the time so less corrosion. (3) Watch how you use shackles. If they can trun sideways you will be carrying the load on the threads and will lose substantial strength. A couple of your initial pictures showed shackles that could turn.
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  #26  
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Well, I would assume that either the mooring would drag, or the cleats would rip out before 5/8" line would snap- but you never know.

Does anyone have any more info about the bow eye hookup? How would one attach to the bouy end?
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  #27  
Old 01-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CascoBay View Post


The best snap hook I could find.

It is a Wichard #2328 with a working load of 3175 lbs and a breaking strength of much more.

What do you guys think? The pin hole is large enough (.75") to fit a shackle pin through to attach it to a pennant.

The problem with snap hooks or carabiners is that they can open themselves if twisted a certain way against the bow eye. It happened to me; thank goodness I had a good back-up pendant going to a bow cleat. They do make locking snap hooks that have a barrel that screws up over the latch. I don't know what sizes they come in; check a mountaineering/climbing shop. Don't use aluminum. I tried that, too, and the stainless bow eye wore part way thru the softer aluminum in a very short time.

My boat is much smaller than yours (less than 3000lb fully loaded!) and not exposed to the waves yours will be but FWIW I use a 3/4" braided pendant attached to the bow eye with a 1/2" chain "quick link." I connect it to the bow eye from the dinghy. It is the last thing I do when I leave the boat and the first thing I release when preparing to go out. I use a 5/8" back up pendant/pick up line that cleats on the bow and secures the boat while the primary line is disconnected. The primary pendant secures to a swivel under the buoy with a regular shackle.
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  #28  
Old 01-26-2010
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Thanks for the input. The whole reason for wanting to use the bow eye is so that I can leave it attached at all times. This will allow me to never have to leave the helm to attach to the mooring ball- I often am alone and the last thing I want to do is climb up on the bow and try to hook up to a pendant when the seas are choppy.

Thats my goal anyway!
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  #29  
Old 01-26-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CascoBay View Post
Thanks for the input. The whole reason for wanting to use the bow eye is so that I can leave it attached at all times. This will allow me to never have to leave the helm to attach to the mooring ball- I often am alone and the last thing I want to do is climb up on the bow and try to hook up to a pendant when the seas are choppy.

Thats my goal anyway!
If I understand you correctly, you want to have a permanent line from the bow eye going back to the cockpit or helm station that you can snap on to the mooring buoy without going forward. In that case I would go ahead and use a strong snap hook or carabiner and snap it to the ring on top of the buoy or to a short pick up loop of line (kept from sinking with a small float) attached to the chain. This would be a temporary connection until you leave the boat and attach your stronger and more secure pendant from the dinghy.

But then again I'm only a small boat lake sailor with limited experience in bigger waters. I'm sure someone will point out the flaws in this plan.
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  #30  
Old 01-26-2010
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Thats correct.

When leaving the mooring I could put the boat in gear, and come up next to the mooring ball, unclip, hook the pendant to my rear cleat and away I go.

At the end of the day I can pull up along side the ball, clip it on, and im done.

The idea is to avoid crawling up on the bow.

Last edited by CascoBay; 01-26-2010 at 03:24 PM.
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