hull reinforcement with liner - Page 2 - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 20 Old 01-29-2010
Senior Member
 
mitiempo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,512
Thanks: 0
Thanked 96 Times in 87 Posts
Rep Power: 8
   
I also don't think I would take a Tanzer across the Atlantic. I would think there would be too much reinforcing needed to make it worthwhile.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
mitiempo is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 20 Old 01-30-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
the rudder has 1/2 pintles, what will the waves do to it?
which rigging mountings do you mean?
I have been told the rigging was originaly oversized for this rig.
xact is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 20 Old 01-30-2010
Dirt Free
 
boatpoker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,170
Thanks: 9
Thanked 33 Times in 32 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
The gudgeon straps are pretty thin stuff and bolted to a very thin transom. If you take a wave from the stern and the rudder is pushed over, the gudgeon straps may not hold up. If they do hold up and the rudder doesn't break theres a good chance it will get torn off that thin transom.

If the rigging is truly oversized it may be ok but I'd suggest you have a an experienced blue water cruiser or surveyor look her over before you get too far into this.

Dirt People Scare me
boatpoker is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 20 Old 01-30-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
guess I will have to hold on to the rudder pretty tight.
the transom is having the plywood removed and cored/glased with foam
the gudgeon straps are 1/8" strap bolted with backing plate.
I think the earlier tanzer's had more robust pintle/gudgeon setup then later models, I was told when they were refabricated last year.
Just had a survey but yes your right dont think Im taking it lightly.
New rudder is a lot lighter too.
xact is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 20 Old 02-01-2010
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
Just remember to properly pot the holes the bolts for the rudder pintle/gudgeons use with thickened epoxy so that water can't get in to the core.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #16 of 20 Old 02-03-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 31
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
anybody have a recomendation for the thickness of corecell to use on the transom?
xact is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #17 of 20 Old 02-03-2010
Senior Member
 
Maine Sail's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Maine Coast
Posts: 5,890
Thanks: 20
Thanked 223 Times in 170 Posts
Rep Power: 16
       
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
boatpoker
Not that I've personally seen but maybe Morris?
No, not Morris. Foam works fine for building and retrofits and as you mentioned Tim L. uses it, as it helps you hold a gap without a specific jig but many production builders use jigs to keep the bulkheads off the hull slightly when tabbing. I have normally just used 1/8" thick pieces of wood shims to hold it away from the hull and keep it in place then done some spot tabs, let cure, remove shims and finish tabbing.

The gap does not need to be big 3/32" - 1/8" is plenty for actual tabbed bulkheads. Screwed bulkheads...well I won't even go there.. My problem with some foams, like weatherstripping used by some, is that they can absorb resin and also just become another hard spot or extension of the bulkhead.

From what I have personally witnessed, and seen in use during construction, Morris uses dead air space, about 3/32" - 1/8" and the bulkheads are held by a jig while getting tabbed. Below is a Morris bulkhead for the anchor locker before the tabbing begins. You can see the gap all the way around. If the hull comes in contact with the plywood, then they did not tab it right.


It would be very tough to tell if a dead air gap or foam was used in the production after the fact and in a survey. Morris, in particular, gelcoats the entire inside after they tab in the bulkheads, not that you could ever see the gap through the tabbing to begin with. My CS-36T has air gaps, as I have had to dig into some of it..


Pretty tough to see that gap now..

______
-Maine Sail / CS-36T


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.




© Images In Posts Property of Compass Marine Inc.



Last edited by Maine Sail; 02-04-2010 at 03:58 PM.
Maine Sail is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #18 of 20 Old 02-03-2010
Senior Member
 
mitiempo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,512
Thanks: 0
Thanked 96 Times in 87 Posts
Rep Power: 8
   
Maine
I knew Morris did it properly but wasn't sure how. I first read of using foam about 30 years ago in Ferenc Mate's book "From A Bare Hull". On my own CS27 I installed 2 partial bulkheads flanking the stove and although it probably wasn't necessary I used 1/2" ethafoam which is close celled. I then filleted with thickened epoxy before tabbing. The foam was compressed a bit before after the bulkhead was in the proper position so less then 1/2" when finished. It is softer than the foam Tim Lackey normally uses.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
mitiempo is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #19 of 20 Old 02-04-2010
Meat Popsicle
 
nailbunnySPU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: marylandish
Posts: 110
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
where do you find ethafoam? it gives some funky results in google
nailbunnySPU is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #20 of 20 Old 02-04-2010
Senior Member
 
mitiempo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,512
Thanks: 0
Thanked 96 Times in 87 Posts
Rep Power: 8
   
Any good plastics shop should sell it. In Victoria a store called Industrial Plastics and Paints sells it in 1/2" thickness 4' wide for about $7 a running foot. It is good insulation and quite flexible. I've insulated 2 fiberglass boats with it and a friend has his boat insulated with it as well and his insulation work is about 20 years old. For insulation I glue it to the hull with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. I used it for bulkhead spacing because I had scraps available. I used a razor knife and cut slightly beveled strips and hot glued it to the hull where the bulkhead was going. Ethafoam is also available in thicknesses upto at least 2" that I've seen. McMaster Carr may have it as well.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
mitiempo is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
High Tech vs traditional-Comments? Pangaea General Discussion (sailing related) 38 08-07-2007 01:07 AM
Spring Hull Cleaning Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 04-05-2004 08:00 PM
hull reinforcement. Heruka General Discussion (sailing related) 0 10-18-2002 04:40 AM
Hull Speed Demystified Steve Colgate Learning to Sail Articles 0 06-10-2000 08:00 PM
Hull Speed Demystified Steve Colgate Buying a Boat Articles 0 06-10-2000 08:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome