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Filling in holes in the deck

OK - so I took the plunge and purchased a new ELECTRIC winch for Polaris. The new Lewmar Pro Series 1000 will replace the S/L Hyspeed that went inop on us. Any advise on how best to fill in the bolt holes from the installation of the original winch?

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post #2 of 29 Old 02-13-2010
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IS this a winch or a WINDLASS. It sounds like a Windlass. Fill the bolt holes with thickened epoxy—preferably thickened with silica.

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post #3 of 29 Old 02-13-2010 Thread Starter
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I guess I'm just a lubber at heart. You're absolutely right, correctly speaking, it's the anchor windlass that is being replaced. I stand corrcted.

Thickened epoxy (thickened with silica)...THANKS!!!



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Glad to help. BTW, if the deck is cored where the fastener holes were, rather than solid fiberglass, you will want to coat the holes with unthickened epoxy first then fill with thickened epoxy—otherwise the core material may steal epoxy from the thickened epoxy and starve it...weakening the plug.

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Thanks again. I'll check that out before I start. Going to have to wait till the snow melts and we have some better weather, though. Right now I'm just chomping at the bit waiting for the new windlass to arrive. 1st order of business is going to try to figure out where to put the toggle switch and contactor box. Then measure the distances involved and buy the wiring. Sadly, I'm REALLY looking forward to this process. Do you have an electric on your boat? Any suggestions on the best location for the toggle switch?

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post #6 of 29 Old 02-14-2010
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I'd put the foot switch or hand controls to the windlass such that you can't operate the windlass when you're touching the anchor rode. Too many people have been injured by the windlass while trying to work on the anchor rode—clear a jam, etc—and accidentally triggered the windlass and had their fingers drawn into the gypsy.

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post #7 of 29 Old 02-14-2010
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Windlass Wiring suggestion -

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave6330 View Post
Right now I'm just chomping at the bit waiting for the new windlass to arrive. 1st order of business is going to try to figure out where to put the toggle switch and contactor box. Then measure the distances involved and buy the wiring.
If you are not aware of these folks yet, check out GenuineDealz.com - Marine Electrical, Boat Wire & Cable, Custom Battery Cables for the heavy cable to your new windlass. The name's hokey, but the product, service and prices are GREAT! They will do a proper crimp/adhesive shrink on the end connections for you for only $1 per crimp. (Get really good measurements!) You must, of course, buy all the individual bits from them, but their prices can't be beat. They even offer free shipping in the lower 48 (not sure about Alaska??). BTW - I have no interest or connection to the company. Good luck with the install!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Glad to help. BTW, if the deck is cored where the fastener holes were, rather than solid fiberglass, you will want to coat the holes with unthickened epoxy first then fill with thickened epoxy—otherwise the core material may steal epoxy from the thickened epoxy and starve it...weakening the plug.
I tend to disagree on the coating with epoxy before putting in filler. Three degrees of seperation = more chances a structural bond is not made.

Here is where I find the fallacy. Coating inside with epoxy is great but no mater what amine blush and no guarantee it soaks evenly or pre fill that it is sanded and amine is removed. Hard to do on filling holes.

The better procedure is to counter-drill larger hole topside and below decks so it makes a concave scenario. Fill. If properly oversized - then with washers etc you have a bond stronger than the remaining surface. Always best to reduce amount of bonding layers. The sucking up epoxy out of a fill means that the core was not paid attention too to begin with. Bonding is best one on one not otherwise. My opinion of course.

-- Jody

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winch or windlass

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IS this a winch or a WINDLASS. It sounds like a Windlass. Fill the bolt holes with thickened epoxy—preferably thickened with silica.
Just curious, does the answer change if it's a winch?


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Hey, can one of you guys pass me a crab?


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Jody—

You coat the hole with unthickened epoxy and then fill with thickened epoxy. You don't let the thinned epoxy cure. There is no three degrees of separation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
I tend to disagree on the coating with epoxy before putting in filler. Three degrees of seperation = more chances a structural bond is not made.

Here is where I find the fallacy. Coating inside with epoxy is great but no mater what amine blush and no guarantee it soaks evenly or pre fill that it is sanded and amine is removed. Hard to do on filling holes.

The better procedure is to counter-drill larger hole topside and below decks so it makes a concave scenario. Fill. If properly oversized - then with washers etc you have a bond stronger than the remaining surface. Always best to reduce amount of bonding layers. The sucking up epoxy out of a fill means that the core was not paid attention too to begin with. Bonding is best one on one not otherwise. My opinion of course.

Sailingdog

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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