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post #161 of 181 Old 06-04-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

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It was not a "marine" product. Was a small standard airtight box stove. They have holes in the legs that can be screwed down to the deck. It was ok for a powerboat with a large cabin but doubt one would work on a sailboat too well unless some additional bracing could be designed. Maybe some kind of solid base instead of the cast iron legs which I wouldn't trust with the boat heeled over.
I also have a basic wood stove, and I agree, the legs have to be replaced so that it can be bolted down, but otherwise no modifications need to be made in my experience.

I love the wood stove. Diesel stoves might be good too, because hey, the boat always has to have some diesel, but other fuels in my opinion are too much trouble. It doesn't seem like that big of a thing to make sure you have fuels on board, but it is so nice to simply be able to gather up some sticks off of the ground, break them with your foot or cut them up, and burn them in a wood stove to stay warm. There is just something about it that I don't think fuel stoves can ever replace. The stove is warm, fuel is plentiful, free, and even collecting the wood is a fun and healthy activity.

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post #162 of 181 Old 06-04-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

When I make a wood stove (welded steel box) I weld 5/8 or 3/4 steel nuts to the bottom corners. to receive threaded rods These hold it secure at chosen height with adjustable nuts and lock washers .Could do the back for bulkhead mount thru the wall. Just be sure of insulation and air gap as they get So hot.
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post #163 of 181 Old 06-04-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

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When I make a wood stove (welded steel box) I weld 5/8 or 3/4 steel nuts to the bottom corners. to receive threaded rods These hold it secure at chosen height with adjustable nuts and lock washers .Could do the back for bulkhead mount thru the wall. Just be sure of insulation and air gap as they get So hot.
Len, have you ever welded up s.s. to make a stove? I wonder how 304 s.s. would hold up to wood fires? I have a (steel plate) Lopi here at home and heat 95% with wood. Welding up a little s.s. stove to replace the kero stinker on the boat sounds like a good project.

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post #164 of 181 Old 06-05-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

No experience with stainless.My guess is it discolors and warps.when it gets hot, doesn't transfer heat well, hard to cut shape or bend and even scraps cost.Mild steel cuts,welds and drills easily Occasional stove black make it look new. Nothing more annoying than a too small stove .What,OUT again? The door and venting hardest engineering so start there Fiber glass rope &tape and stove cement are available so you could even use,,, wait for it,,, stove bolts.I like fire glass doors and tight seal for airtight fit and a soap or other stone plate on top unless making morning coffee needs speed.I keep my eyes peeled at junk yard for iron or brass gee gaws. Example , brass wooden toilet seat hinge parts hold a 3/8 brass rod fiddle around the stove top .Put them on rod before bending Multi layered thin ss panel with cement board washers between bulkhead and hot dissipates heat and acts like hot air pump.( Part of stove?) Larger ss pipe centered on smoke pipe prevents melting rain gear ( open bottom and top)Special attention to deck fitting .I make mine in SS. two pipes and two rings Smaller and longer fits the stove pipe. Bigger holds the cooling water. Deep protects the interior deckhead. Big ring is deck flange. I have pressure hot water so I've not done this but if you plumb cold water in from a galley pump, hot could be directed to come out at sink Justa thought. Cement board (air space)and tiles are heat sink and lookin good.
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post #165 of 181 Old 06-06-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

I guess s.s. is unnecessary for inside and the stuff is wicked expensive. Even the rod is expensive, around $30 a pound. A little stove, about 1/2 the size of a small box stove, made out of mild steel plate would be pretty easy to weld up and would fit right where the kero burner is now. Hmmmm. Another project.

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post #166 of 181 Old 06-07-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

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I guess s.s. is unnecessary for inside and the stuff is wicked expensive. Even the rod is expensive, around $30 a pound. A little stove, about 1/2 the size of a small box stove, made out of mild steel plate would be pretty easy to weld up and would fit right where the kero burner is now. Hmmmm. Another project.
I think using fire brick on the inside gives you a lot more options too.

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post #167 of 181 Old 06-07-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

If you go to a stove store see how inlet air is handled and door seals.Add the fire brick to inside ,bottom and 3 sides and the outside dimensions approach 12" square. Smaller is cute and less effective. Keep the door sill higher than the coals to prevent burns on the cabin sole .I like preheating air in vertical square tubes (many drilled holes 3/16?) on each side of the door opening. Incoming air keeps the glass soot free.Air control is easy with guillotine siding over large access ports or threaded cap (second choice) Stove black and polished brass trim, tile on hardie board backing(air gap) say ambiance .
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post #168 of 181 Old 06-08-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

I switched to stainless wood stoves back in 1979, after dealing withe constant shedding of rust from my steel one . No complaints. I use 1/8th inch stainless. I've built many for others ,who are very happy with them. No problem with heat transfer, 1/8th inch stainless doesn't keep heat inside. Where can it go? Stainless doesn't stay shiny long, turns matt black , but doesn't rust.
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post #169 of 181 Old 06-09-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Thanks Brent. Do you use any kind of liner brick? That 1/8" seems light to be taking the kind of heat a wood fire can produce without something between fire and metal. Am thinking maybe at least 1/4" for the top with some firebrick on the sides/bottom.

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post #170 of 181 Old 06-11-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

We went with a dickerson diesel fireplace. Propane was considered but we have limited propane and the heater draws a fair bit; easier to fill diesel tank than lug propane tank and get it filled.
We T'd off a fuel line from one of our main tanks, ran the line to a low pressure pump behind the bulkhead from the fireplace, pump is 12VDC as is the draw fan on the heater.
We built our own heat shield from ceramic tile, but SS plate works well too.
chimney is through the cabin top, advantage with diesel or solid fuel is that the Charlie Noble is removable and hole is filled with a deck plate which resovles issues when offshore or sailing.
Lighting is harder than propane, but not super difficult and takes about 2-3min. Essentially pre heat burn ring while watching and then turn on fuel.
In 5 years of extensive use have never had a soot problem. Lived aboard in NYC and in winter used every day, we vacuumed out burn chamber once a week and same for chimney at end of season.
Dickersen diesel fireplace has a window so the flame is readily visalble and quite attractive.
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