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  #171  
Old 06-11-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

I set my stove up for fire brick, but never felt the need to use it, nor saw any advantage to carrying the extra weight, in the last 35 years. 1/8th inch stainless is all you need.
Friends, cruising the Gulf Islands in an Ericson 37 use $280 worth of oil a month in winter, almost my entire cost of cruising. My fire wood is free. Takes 15 minutes to round up a weeks supply from the beach. A cheap chainsaw makes it much easier. I get up to 14 hours burning time on a load of wood. I'd much rather be gathering firewood, than working a steady job to pay for oil, etc. Gathering wood is a far more pleasant way to spend time.
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  #172  
Old 07-17-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Any suggestions on where to find parts for a Cole Stove model 1655. I need the deck gasket for the flue/chimney.

thanks,

Jim Boyle
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  #173  
Old 07-17-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

I just welded up a wood stove for a friend , who was getting disgusted with paying $200 a month for diesel.
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  #174  
Old 07-18-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Brent, what kind of rod have you found best for 316/304 stainless? I've been using Super Missileweld which works really well for stick welding (DC reverse polarity), but is wicked expensive.
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  #175  
Old 07-21-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Would like to see some photos, drawings of what you welded up.
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  #176  
Old 12-11-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

He All,
Reading this thread and a few others similar topic. I'm wondering if someone can help clarify on propane system install. We've got an existing propane system that surveyor said needs fixing. Right now there are two appliances; stove and hot water heater in the head (and we may want to add a bulkhead salon heater unless we decide to go diesel with that...) Problem is that the PO installed one propane line that has a "t" at the stove to a copper line all the way to the hot water heater in the head. We need one fuel line to each appliance from the fuel source but can we run a hose from tank to the copper line or do we need to rip out all the copper line so we have one single "unbroken" fuel line (ie, hose) to appliance?

Seems to me code language is vague on this detail;

"A-1.9.5.6 Fuel supply lines shall be continuous lengths of tubing, piping, or hose from the regulating device, solenoid valve, or leak detector to the appliance, or to the flexible section at the appliance."

Thanks,
JudyM
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  #177  
Old 12-12-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JudyM View Post
He All,
Problem is that the PO installed one propane line that has a "t" at the stove to a copper line all the way to the hot water heater in the head. We need one fuel line to each appliance from the fuel source but can we run a hose from tank to the copper line or do we need to rip out all the copper line so we have one single "unbroken" fuel line (ie, hose) to appliance?

Seems to me code language is vague on this detail;

"A-1.9.5.6 Fuel supply lines shall be continuous lengths of tubing, piping, or hose from the regulating device, solenoid valve, or leak detector to the appliance, or to the flexible section at the appliance."

Thanks,
JudyM
I had nearly the exact same problem. I had a rubber (neoprene?) propane tubing that ran to the stove and then there was a threaded "T" fitting whereby it split to the cabin heater and the galley stove.

Our surveyor told us that the "T" fitting was a possible leak source and needed to be removed from the cabin. What we did was put the "T" AFTER the solenoid but above the deck level, and then run 2 lengths of tubing, one to the stove and one to the heater. This eliminated the possibility (in theory) of a leak at the "T" fitting below decks.

I agree that the wording is vague. By their wording I would be out of compliance also even though my leaking "T" fitting would be above decks and the propane would flow overboard.

I was under the impression (always dangerous) that brazed copper fittings ARE considered part of an unbroken tube and "T" fittings were allowed with them...

You should call and ask your surveyor for clarification. Whatever your planned fix is, run it by them first for approval. That's part of what you paid them for.

Stay warm!
MedSailor
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  #178  
Old 12-12-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Odds are that the copper fitting isn't brazed--probably a compression or flare fitting, in which case you don't have a continuous line. If you just run a new rubber hose from the solenoid to the heater you won't have to wonder if a fitting of unknown age or quality is leaking or if the copper has cracked anywhere. You may know that copper hardens where it flexes or vibrates and becomes succeptible to cracking. Rubber hose that's protected from chafe eliminates that worry. I think you'll find you need a seperate solenoid for each appliance, too. Otherwise all the lines get propane in them when you use just one appliance, defeating the purpose of the remote solenoid in the first place.
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  #179  
Old 12-13-2012
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Quote:
Originally Posted by VallelyJ View Post
Odds are that the copper fitting isn't brazed--probably a compression or flare fitting, in which case you don't have a continuous line. If you just run a new rubber hose from the solenoid to the heater you won't have to wonder if a fitting of unknown age or quality is leaking or if the copper has cracked anywhere. You may know that copper hardens where it flexes or vibrates and becomes succeptible to cracking. Rubber hose that's protected from chafe eliminates that worry. I think you'll find you need a seperate solenoid for each appliance, too. Otherwise all the lines get propane in them when you use just one appliance, defeating the purpose of the remote solenoid in the first place.
Why would that defeat the purpose of the remote solenoid? The solenoid is designed to keep the propane off until you are using an appliance and provide an easy avenue to shut off all propane flow to the boat should a leak occur. Should a leak be detected by an alarm, a single solenoid would quickly shut off ALL propane to the boat with the flip of one switch. In an automated system a single solenoid rigged to a sniffer would do the job correctly bu shutting off all propane to the boat if it "sniffed" any propane.

I suppose you could be using one appliance and the other could leak but no matter if the one in use is leaking or the one not in use is leaking the key is detection (by sniffer, alarm or nose) and quickly shutting it off, which a single solenoid would achieve as well or better than multiple separate solenoids would.

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Last edited by MedSailor; 12-13-2012 at 12:18 AM.
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  #180  
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Re: Wood, Diesel or propane bulkhead heating stove?

Quote:
Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
Brent, what kind of rod have you found best for 316/304 stainless? I've been using Super Missileweld which works really well for stick welding (DC reverse polarity), but is wicked expensive.
Type 308 or 316 SS rod works well. Around $11 a pound
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