Took the windlass apart today - found something interesting things - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 46 Old 03-01-2010 Thread Starter
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SD,

I figured you meant the springs and other (very few) things that get greased separately from the oil bath. And I think that's what you meant. So no harm done.

Regards,
Brad

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post #22 of 46 Old 03-01-2010
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Damn, that Bene505 is a bright boy...

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SD,

I figured you meant the springs and other (very few) things that get greased separately from the oil bath. And I think that's what you meant. So no harm done.

Regards,
Brad

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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #23 of 46 Old 03-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bene505 View Post
SD,

I figured you meant the springs and other (very few) things that get greased separately from the oil bath. And I think that's what you meant. So no harm done.

Regards,
Brad
He didn't...but he thanks you for giving him a graceful out...

"Go Simple...Go Large"

Relationships are everything to me..everything else in life are just tools to enhance them.


The purchase price of a boat is just the admittance fee to the dance...you still have to spend money on the girl...so court one with something going for her with pleasing and desirable character traits others desire as well... or you could find yourself in a disillusioned relationship contemplating an expensive divorce.
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post #24 of 46 Old 03-01-2010
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Too bad SR is so slow...
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He didn't...but he thanks you for giving him a graceful out...

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #25 of 46 Old 03-01-2010 Thread Starter
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Well it's a good clarification, for the next guy who opens up their windlass, so bravo to you both for the overall discussion -- without which I'd be a lot more fearful of tackling something like this.

Now I just have to pursue Thinny's suggestion and see if the motor has a model number on it anywhere. Judging by the $76 that I paid for 6 "O" rings (I kid you not), there's got to be a cheaper source for brushes. ...and I have a few days before the $30 spring arrives.

Regards,
Brad

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post #26 of 46 Old 03-01-2010 Thread Starter
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While I'm handing out kudos, I'd like to say that if you are anywhere near Floral Park (Nassau County), NY that you'd be hard pressed to find a better, more trustworthy auto mechanic than Billy Anzelone. My brother clued me in to him about a dozen years ago, and it's allowed me to keep my cars around a lot longer, when others would need to frequently replace theirs. (Either that, or being an IT guy in a town of stockbrokers and salespeople means I have to keep my car longer than them. But I'd rather not think about it THAT way.)

Regards,
Brad

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Great minds discuss ideas;
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The best minds discuss sailing (and a little bit of politics). I don't know why. It's a mystery!
.

Last edited by Bene505; 03-01-2010 at 04:28 PM.
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post #27 of 46 Old 03-03-2010
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"Judging by the $76 that I paid for 6 "O" rings (I kid you not)," Oh man that sucks.

Generally O-Rings are pretty universal, try to match the material for the application. I think that generally Viton O-rings are the best for most applications.

Don't match the new O-ring to the old one. The old one will be compressed, and the cross section diameter of the old one won't match the correct new one. You may have to buy 3 of the correct diameter and then try to fit them until you find the one with the correct cross section.

If you have the parts diagram, the original manufacturer may actually list the SAE O-ring part number, instead of some in-house part number. If that is the case then you can purchase the correct o-ring with no trouble.

Springs are tougher, if you have the parts diagram, it may list the specs on the spring (I doubt it). If you have a source where you know you can trust the quality you may be able to purchase three or four and see what works. I would be hesitant to go this route, maybe $30 is worth the reduction in time and effort to find a part that may or may not work properly for the next 10 years.
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post #28 of 46 Old 03-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Thin,

Since I have the "O" rings now, I could match them pretty easily, and maybe ship them back? (Is that ethical considering they took the time to send them to me? Maybe I could put a fiver in the box.)

In other news, the spring is here! One thing about those IMTRA guys, they ship really fast. I made the on-line order on Sunday and it was here on Tuesday. One little spring, well padded in about an 8x6x6 box. With that kind of packing, I'd have no reservations about ordering anything from them, except maybe for the price, of course.

And now that I see the spring intact, it looks like no other spring I've seen. It has an unusual tapering shape near the end, probably so it doesn't interfere with the "finger" piece that slots in place (latches) against the "no backing up" gear. And the ends where the screws go through are at different angles from each other too. I'm very glad I spent the money on it.

[I have a picture of the spring, but can't post to my ftp site just now. Please check back in a day or two.]

Thanks for the encouragement and guidance on the brushes. I spent some time online Sunday, looking for the brushes for the CIMA motor. CIMA is an Italian company, so there's not a lot of companies in the US that carry their brushes. There's an outfit that listed CIMA on their website and I've sent them an email. If they work out, we could all use them for these types of brushes.

In other news, I keep thinking about that rust around the motor casing "O" ring. It's bothering me. When our bow is taking green water, that whole windlass is a couple feet under rushing water, getting dunked again and again. Leaving that improper seal seems like I'm inviting a motor failure and then a rebuild or replacement. I think I'll do the naval jelly, emory cloth thing and then once I get shiny metal immediately apply rustoleum. (The "O' ring there still looks servicable, but I'll probably spend a couple cycles lookng for one.)

I'm scheming to leave the guts of the motor in place while I apply naval jelly to the edge of the case and rinse it off afterwards. Not sure I'll be able to though. It will depend on how far the rust goes around the edge to the inside of the case, and (if not too far) whether I can use duct tape or something to seal off the internals while I'm working. I'll probably have to remove the guts, something I'm not looking forward to.

It seems I've gone down the rabbit hole a bit, successively finding another thing needing work inside each thing I work on. I do believe I can get it all back together though. <-- Isn't that the essence (and optimism) of boat projects?

Big thanks everyone for the encouragement and guidance, on everything from springs and brushes, to gears and grease. Up until a few weeks ago, I though grease was a musical! (grin)

Regards,
Brad

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Average minds discuss events;
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The best minds discuss sailing (and a little bit of politics). I don't know why. It's a mystery!
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Last edited by Bene505; 03-03-2010 at 09:30 AM.
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post #29 of 46 Old 03-03-2010
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Brad-
Instead of naval jelly, what about one of the rust convertor products? You paint them on the rust, they convert it to a non-porous black material and then paint directly over it. Available as liquid or spray, in the auto body/paint repair shelves, from Loctite and others IIRC.
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post #30 of 46 Old 03-03-2010
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HS's point about using something like OSPHO, is a good one.

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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