Took the windlass apart today - found something interesting things - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 46 Old 03-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Good point. I tried that stuff last year for something else. It wouldn't eat away at the inside of the case where I can't easily reach. It would let me sand it down smooth and then paint it, and then the "O" ring would have something flat to get a good waterproof seal against.

I think you just saved me several hours of work!!

(Always liked the phrase Naval Jelly. For some reason it's a funny phrase. It reminds me of when the Naval Academy had a mispelling on their diplomas and couldn't give them out at graduation.)

By the way, is Rustoleum the right paint for an application where there will be some severe dunking taking place? I'm thinking I may need to go with a 2-part marine paint or something. (...and therefore a trip to West Marine, I guess.)

Regards,
Brad

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post #32 of 46 Old 03-03-2010
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Brad, I would think that for a o ring to seal correctly you would want it to seat in shinny pit free grove. Using a rust converter will not achieve this. I also would not coat it with rustoleum. With the emery cloth I would get the grove/ channel as smooth and shinny as I could and grease up the o-ring with plumbers grease and reinstall it.


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post #33 of 46 Old 03-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks Bubb. Is this the right product? I see it is "heat proof" which sounds like something I need.

Heat Proof Plumber's Grease

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Brad

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post #34 of 46 Old 03-03-2010
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that would be fine, but any plumbers grease will work. think ace hardware. what you are trying to do with the plumbers grease is to protect the O-ring from drying out and loosing it's seal.


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post #35 of 46 Old 03-03-2010
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Brad, I've use Evapo-Rust Rust Remover Home
It does what it says it does. If something is badly enough rusted however it will be pitted.
If you are depending on a seal between an smooth metal surface and a compression ring the pits may cause leakage.
I've never done it but a coating of epoxy (sanded) over the steel may fill in the pits to recreate the flat surface to seal with an o-ring.

How much is the housing?
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post #36 of 46 Old 03-03-2010 Thread Starter
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David,

I've been thinking the same thing, that a replacement housing would be good.

Regards,
Brad

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post #37 of 46 Old 03-10-2010
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Don't leave us hanging Bene, waiting for parts?

Last edited by davidpm; 03-10-2010 at 08:54 PM.
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post #38 of 46 Old 03-11-2010
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Great post please keep us informed as to what has happened.

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post #39 of 46 Old 03-16-2010 Thread Starter
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All parts are in. And I bought a gear puller off eBay.

Try as I might, I couldn't get the remaining part off the shaft. The part is best seen at the bottom of this picture:


I was pulling on the disk-shaped part that bolts onto the side of the housing, since I couldn't get the arms (hands?) of the puller around the other piece. Maybe that's the problem. I could grind down the hands so they'd fit in the gap between the 2 disks. That might work, since I think there might be somthing on the shaft to keep the rotating part from rubbing against the housing-part.

By the way, I noticed the puller is made in India. The threads on the big, threaded bolt are easily damaged. Maybe inferior steel? You get what you pay for with pullers, I guess.


Trying to get that list disk off.


What does everyone think, should I leave the disk in place and replace all the other "O" Rings, or grind down the hands of the gear puller so I can get behind the disk and replace that last "O" ring too. After all, the season is about to start and I have a bunch more projects to do.

(Oh, I know the answer. Just making conversation, I guess. Where's that grinder?)

Regards,
Brad

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post #40 of 46 Old 03-17-2010
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You're trying to pull that casting off to replace an o-ring, right?
Another option would be to try to remove everything from the other end first.

Do you have the schematic? Make sure that you're supposed to disassemble it in that direction, there may be a shoulder on the shaft that you can't see.

If you have to remove it the other direction try using a short piece of pipe to drive everything off, be sure to protect the far end of the shaft (rest it on plywood) and maybe even use a large washer to protect the part of the case that the pipe rest on.

I would also try using plenty of PB blast, although once you start doing that will have to replace the o-ring then, and removal of the case becomes mandatory.
Check for any clips or pins that hold the gear in place, it would stink to pull the case apart and find out that you've dragged a pin across the o-ring sealing surface.
Also check for a partially sheared shaft key.

You also may be able to rent a shaft puller that has a 15 inches of reach from a rental store.

Hope this helps.
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