Took the windlass apart today - found something interesting things - Page 5 - SailNet Community
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post #41 of 46 Old 03-17-2010 Thread Starter
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Thin,

Good advice. I've been using a little WD-40. No PB blaster yet. Here's the breakout.

http://www.lofrans.it/esplosi/schemi/B11101.pdf





It helps visualise everything if you first look at the Brake Band (#441) as a large ring. The big part behind it is a separate part, partially blocked from view by the Brake Band.

It's the Clutch Cone (#436) that won't come off. Behind it is an O ring and a seal (I have both parts). Behind the seal is the Cover (#445). I'm yanking on the cover because there's no room between the Cover and the Clutch Cone - when I'm not yanking on it, there's 1/4 of an inch gap between them.

I got the puller for next to nothing on eBay, and don't mind having a special "Lofrans Falcon Windlass Clutch Cone Removal Tool" in the future. So I'm planning to grind down the "hand" on the puller arms so they'll fit between the clutch cone and the cover. Then I'll pull the clutch cone off. (The cover is already loose.)

Regards,
Brad

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Last edited by Bene505; 04-22-2010 at 01:31 AM.
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post #42 of 46 Old 03-17-2010 Thread Starter
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Separate question... Does anyone know how to make the corroded surface of the windlass look nicer? Do you recommend some white paint, or should I apply something else to it?

Regards,
Brad

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post #43 of 46 Old 03-17-2010
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I just want to know if your family is mad that you're making them eat on the floor.


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post #44 of 46 Old 03-17-2010
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Is there a key or something hidden in the shaft that is blocking the pull?

Other than the gunsmiths in the Khyber Pass...India is known for ship breakers (literally) and cheap steel tools, yes. But I don't think I'd invest time in grinding down and weakening the puller, if you can find a machine shop or autoshop they can probably pull that apart for $5-10 and IF there's something you aren't seeing that is holding it in place, sometimes the extra eyes are worthwhile.

Caveat on the grease: That URL for plumber's grease talks about an MSDS for teflon food-grade pipe dope, but shows a petroleum based product. They're confused and that's not a good thing.

With o-rings and lubes, the rings will fail if you use an incompatible lubricant. So, you don't use petroleum-based lubes on nylon and synthetics, you use synthetic (silicon, teflon, krytox) grease on them. Petroleum-based products often rot the synthetics, when in doubt you need to confirm what you've got. Rubber, Buna-n, silicone, all kinds of o-rings out there. (Yeah, go figure, grease ain't just grease and o-rings ain't just o-rings.)
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post #45 of 46 Old 03-17-2010 Thread Starter
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Smack -- The windlass is on the floor in the corner of the living room. I can maintain my personal subcutaneous flotation at the dinner table.

The windlass is going back on the table for the final assembly.

Regards,
Brad

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post #46 of 46 Old 04-22-2010 Thread Starter
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This thread continues on a new thread, located here:

Put my windlass back together -- works great!

To make it easy for readers please put any replies on that thread, not here.

Regards,
Brad

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Great minds discuss ideas;
Average minds discuss events;
Small minds discuss people.
.
The best minds discuss sailing (and a little bit of politics). I don't know why. It's a mystery!
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