Wet plywood deck core - how to dry? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 35 Old 03-01-2010
Senior Member
 
tager's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 991
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
If it isn't rotten yet, and you aren't going offshore. Just leave it alone. Maybe try the dehumidifier. Re coring would be foolish as the core is still good.

Last edited by tager; 03-01-2010 at 11:28 AM.
tager is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 35 Old 03-01-2010
Senior Member
 
tommays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,296
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
I am dealing with a wet plywood core right now

1. I have had one 8" X 12" section of wood out of the boat for a week it is NOT getting dry

2. There are many areas on my boat that while damp are BEST left alone as there is no delamination of the wood OR the inner and outer glass ,even the worst wood is still intact BUT is not bonded to the glass causing flex


3. In my case i have to work inside as the inner skin is REALLY thin

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
tommays is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 35 Old 03-01-2010
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
While worth a shot, I'd point out that this will likely only dry out the innermost layers of the plywood and that the uppermost layers will still be damp and rotting... The brown water you've been seeing is generally a sign of the wood rotting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by laHolland View Post
That's a good idea, Rosa. I think I will try that first, and then reevaluate.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 35 Old 03-01-2010
Mark on Camper 58
 
NICHOLSON58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Grand Rapids Michigan
Posts: 199
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 7
 
You can find industrial grade masks and respirators at safety equipment industrial supply houses to commercial business. Especially look in stores catering to automotive and professional painters. Try the upscale Sherwin-Williams industrial outlets. Any paint store that sells 2-part Urethane paints. Also look in McMaster-Carr on line. You want the mask with the screw-on replacement cartridges with the proper fill, such as activated carbon etc. it wont make you invincable but will protect from casual inhalation.

BTW, I found very inexpensive white 2-part at Sherwin-Williams they sell for water tank lining and bilge water proofing. It did a really nice job below deck and chain locker. Pick the slow cure or you will be hustling.
NICHOLSON58 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 35 Old 03-02-2010
Senior Member
 
mitiempo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,498
Thanks: 0
Thanked 96 Times in 87 Posts
Rep Power: 8
   
I'd suggest also that you will never dry it effectively in place. The moisture has travelled along the plies of the plywood far and wide and probably took ages to move throughout the wood. This is one of several reasons that plywood is such a bad core. It will continue to rot and freeze/thaw cycles in the winter will eventually cause delamination. I suggest complete removal of the wet plywood and a recore with either end grain balsa or a foam core. It is a tough job from below. A neighbor just had 1/2 of his cabintop recored which included removing wet plywood and it took a pro about a month to complete the job (32' Westsail) from below.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
mitiempo is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #16 of 35 Old 03-02-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 51
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Tommays, I looked at the picture of your "coffee" leak and it is very similar to mine (Cal 27, pop-top). The interior FG is thin in many spots, or poorly laid, so it doesn't seem worth wrecking a perfectly nice exterior when the interior is kind of crap anyway. The problem is the frost-heave with the wet wood.. when it expanded in the winter, it broke apart the seam where the cabin ceiling meets the pop-top frame, which is where it is slightly oozing coffee. It took me a while to figure out why it was oozing from the HIGHEST part of the boat, rather than a lower spot, and an area that isn't near any source of potential water intrusion.. it's oozing from that spot because it's the only area with an open seam to ooze from.
laHolland is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #17 of 35 Old 03-03-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 339
Thanks: 2
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
wet plywood core

As others have said you need to remove wet core. Attached is a picture of the plywood core in the cockpit sole of my boat. The boat was inside in a heated dry shop for two months before we cut the skin off and started removing the core. The plywood was totally delaminated and dripping water. Wow. Interestingly due to the heavy lay up there were no gelcoat or stress cracks on the sole. The pedestal would deflect the deck when leaned on but not that much. Fortunately my surveyor caught this and the buyer adjusted the price which covered the cost of the repair.

For those interested, the repair entailed a new plywood core with the center section being sold glass. This means that in the future the sole penetrations for the pedestal and rudder post will be through sold glass with chance for the plywood to get wet.
Attached Thumbnails
cocpitsole1.jpg   newsoleglass.jpg  
Sanduskysailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #18 of 35 Old 03-04-2010
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Saw an interesting thread on another board discussing the use of microwaves to dry core.

Using Microwaves to Dry a Wet Deck Core - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

Steve
idontwantanaccount is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #19 of 35 Old 03-04-2010
On the hard
 
CharlieCobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bellingham, WA.
Posts: 3,503
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 11
   
One of the things you'll see posted on sailing forums is the old "drill a lot of holes and inject penetrating epoxy into it" trick. Let me tell ya, it don't work. All you end up with is sheets of rotten ply with lots of little epoxy towers in it. A PO tried this with Oh Joy's decks and I personally saw the results when I tore them off.

Baggett and Sons Marine Restoration
The Landing at Colony Wharf
Bellingham, WA.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CharlieCobra is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #20 of 35 Old 03-11-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 339
Thanks: 2
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
next steps in process

Here are some new pics of the plywood core adventure. One shows plywood and balsa cores laid in. The next shows the old skin placed on top as a template to drill new holes.
Attached Thumbnails
sole 3.jpg   sole2.jpg  
Sanduskysailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Techniques for Removing Teak Decks Sue & Larry Buying a Boat Articles 0 11-24-2003 07:00 PM
How to Paint Your Own Deck Don Casey Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 02-04-2002 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome