Join Date: Nov 2000
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work
" Now, if you can show me that a marine regulator operates at a higher voltage for a longer period of time: that would be the only way it can maintain a higher rate of charge than an automotive regulator. "
Exactly my point. A good "smart" regulator can be tweeked to do this as is shown in this website http://www.amplepower.com/ps_reports/v2-2/index.html
Look at the two different charts of output voltage and current over time. In the same time frame the "smart" Regulator returned 160 Ah to the batteries, the Other Regulator returned 110-115 Ah. This translates to a relative performance of only 69-72% of the "smart" Regulator performance.
"Higher is exactly what destroys gel cells. They will overheat and create undesired gas bubbles on the plates, which decreases their efficiency. This effectively destroys the gel cell, as it has no way to dispose of the gas and it canít be reabsorbed. "
Exactly A good "smart" regulator can be tweeked (or just set to the Gell-Setting) to do reduce the possibility of this happening
"Your reference to rotor speed: there is no real physical difference between a marine alternator rotor and any other alternator. An automotive alternator will produce max output at about 1000 engine rpm. ....... At cranking rpm the load of the rotor is insignificant and identical to a marine alternator."
Agreed, if you read my posts completely I never really said there were big differences (or really any other than maybe powder coating or ign protection) between alternators, I was pretty much discussing about "smart" regulators
"Your argument as to long and short trips for boats or cars makes no sense"
My point is there is a huge difference between the way a person using a car electrical system and the way a person uses a sailboat electrical system.
In a car, most of the time any load is used while the engine is running, but while on a sailboat most of the load is used while the engine is off. This predicates the need to get as much "juice" back into the batteries in the shortest amount of engine run time (at least that is the way I feel, I don''t like having my engine on, but would rather sail).
If you have the engine running all the time its easy to get the batteries full but to do it in the least amount of time requires an optimized charge profile in which
The Bulk phase, the Absorption phase, and the Float phase are maximized. (Please refer to all the references I have shown ......these are not all from marine regulator manufactures, but many battery industry experts)
"It will provide a perfect curve charge rate."
No it will not, at least not all the time. As you can see from these charts http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/dcfaq6.htm different batteries have different "optimized" charging curves. For you to allude to the fact that one single charging regimen (algorithm) from an automotive regulator is perfect for all batteries is not 100% accurate. Sure it will work fine, but it is not the best way to do things. I won''t even go into the fact that most good "smart" regulators can do an extra equalization phase which is critical to extended battery life. Why do you think most people replace their batteries every 2-3 years?
And not ever "regular" 3 stage regulator does that, it would need to be a bit smarter to be optimized, but for sure it would be much better than most of the 2-stage regulators you see out there.
The batteries on my boats last almost 2 times longer than most peoples and well past what normal is. (No I don''t have Trojan or Rolls batteries) And its not because I don''t use my batteries. I anchor out alot , have radar, TV/VCR, stereo and lights on & kids on board !! And its because of the charging regimen. Sure a auto alternator/regulator will work fine, but how often do these people need to get batteries every 2-3 years, when I get 6 out of lower end Excides? To say "one size fits all" does a disservice to people out there.