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  #1  
Old 02-11-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

(mrb2222 - couldn''t reply directly to your previous post).

Quite a few. But very few made of metal.

I''d say the re-enforced fresh water hoses you get from Home depot are, as are fawcets and plumbing. In fact some plumbing stuff I purchased from home depot is better than what I have seem from chandlery''s. I would not say that about Sanitation Hoses though. Only use the BEST (its white - forgot name - I think Sealand?)

Also I don''t think you need a marine stereo for boats. They are over priced and lower audio quality. Unless the particular device is going to be exposed to direct weather then just get a good car stereo/CD etc.

Anything critical or below the water line I would use good marinized stuff. Especially Hose Clamps (XYZ brands are notorious for rusting on boats even when stainless steel marked) and Thru-hulls. Just spend the extra 20% and get the good marinized ones.

Oh yeah - With Wiring you want the good "tined" wiring due to moisture wicking etc. Regular (aka non-"tin"ed - Non marinized) wiring will give you more fits over the years than you can imagine. Don''t cheap out here also.
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Old 02-12-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

Cruising is a lot like camping out, just on the water. Much of your galley can be purchased “non marine”. I found a great deal, a set of four plastic dishes, bread dishes, saucers, bowls and cups in a bag for taking in the picnic. They’re pretty durable and have lasted two seasons. I think I paid a buck for the bag and bought two for a setting for eight!

How about the grill? There’s not much more stupid looking then a prim and proper yacht sailing along with a $200.00 “flying saucer” attached to the stern rail! One of the $25 dollar el-cheapo’s works just as well. Put some wet paper towels under it while you’re cooking to ketch any drips. Store it in a plastic bag after it’s cooled.

Wiring? I use SO chord, available at any hardware store, all over the boat, It’s the same thing as extension chords. It’s available in many sizes, 14 and 16 being the most common depending on the load and number counts from 2 to 8 or better for multiple wires going in one direction. I have re-wired many boats with it. It’s flexible, durable and takes crimp connectors well. On the connectors, I load then up with silicone or Vaseline before I put the wires to them so the actual mechanical connection is sealed.

Flashlights, binoculars, sleeping bags, radios, overhead lights and lanterns. There’s a plethora of non marine stuff out there that will hold up just as good, and sometimes even better then the stuff sold at the marine stores! Look in automotive stores, hardware stores, camping and RV and even antique stores and flea markets.

JUST USE YOUR HEAD AND NEVER SHIRK WHEN IT COMES TO THINGS THAT ARE A FUNCTION OF YOUR BOAT! THE INTERGITY OF YOUR HULL, DECK, RIGGING AND POWER PLANT SHOULD NEVER BE COMPROMISED BY THE USE OF A CHEAPER ALTERNATIVE!
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Old 02-15-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

Thanks for the ideas. Any thoughts about alternators? It seems to me a good automotive one is exposed to harsh weather, especially in the snowier states and can handle road salt spray ok. Seems like it should work.
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Old 02-15-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

Alternators for cars are set up to charge differently than for deep cycle batteries. It''s not a question of hardiness, but one of efficiency.

Fair winds
John
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Old 02-16-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

the alternators provided on most marine engines are automotive models (internally regulated) and they are fine if you don''t need much charging capacity. If you need higher output you can use truck alternators that are externally regulated. They can be so much cheaper that even if they dont outlast the marinized versions you can throw them out and get another. The marinized versions are usually drop in replacements for the original alternator..The convenience of that feature can be very valuable.

One thing that I have used on two boats is a remote oil filter device from JC whitney. It consists of a bracket that you mount on a bulkhead and screw a large truck filter onto. An adapter plate goes on the engine where the original filter was installed. Hoses connect the two.

This has several benefits over the filter that comes on the engine. The replacement filter is cheaper and bigger than the original. It is the most common oil filter used on truck engines so it is available everywhere. The filter comes off the holder in a straight vertical orientation so there is no leakage, and you end up with more oil in the system than would normally be there (the filter alone holds a quart). Since these devices are designed to work in automotive applications where gasoline engines run much hotter than diesels) there should be no problem with durability. The last one I installed was working after 15 years when I sold the boat.
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Old 02-16-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

One more thought...Dont use a standard marine or automotive alternator on a gel cell battery, it will trash it by taking it to voltages higher than the gel cells will tolerate. charging these fragile batteries is a major reason sailors like externally regulated alternators. BTW, you can modify an internally regulated alternator so it can be regulated externally. I dont know how to do it but have been told it can be done.
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Old 02-16-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

When the alternator on my Volvo MD7A crapped out, I went to replace it. After hearing how much it would cost and how long it would take to get one, I modified the engine to use a standard Delco-Remy with a built in regulator. These can be found just about anywhere, at any automotive bone yard or parts store for real cheap money. I''d be willing to bet that even off the coast of Maine, in some rusted hunk of metal that long ago ceased to be a vehicle and became a photographic motif in a pine shrouded field on some outpost island, I could find a functional replacement!
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Old 02-17-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

Pirate,
Regarding the use of your chevy alternator:
That is one use of non-marinized equipment that can be dangerous. Marine alternators are designed to be spark-free so as not to cause an explosion when the engine is started if gas fumes or propane have filled the bilge. Gasoline is not a concern for you, I realize, but it might be for someone else. The use of an automotive alternator in a boat is not recommended. Sometimes marine stuff is more expensive for a perfectly good reason. The Delco-Remy is available in a spark suppressed model, and yes, it costs more.
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Old 02-17-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

Miss information abounds on this subject. If aN auto parts store sells gell cells for your car WHY DO SOME PEOPLE THINK THAT AN AUTOMOTIVE ATERNATOR OR REGULATOR WILL DAMAGE IT. THAT IS ABSURD!!! MARINE DEALERS DO NOT WANT YOU TO KNOW THAT OFF THE COUNTER AUTOMOTIVE IS EQUAL AND AT TIMES SUPERIOR TO WHAT THEY SELL. I CHALLANGE ANYBODY WHO THINKS THEY HAVE BETTER CREDENTIALS OR EXPERIENCE THAN ME TO PROVE ME WRONG. As far as safety concerns. Firemen don''t think you should use a match to light your cigarette unless you have had extensive training. YOU DON''T HAVE TO IDIOT PROOF EVERYTHING. IF YOU THINK THAT THERE IS ANYTHING ABOUT LEAVING SOLID GROUND THAT IS SAFE DON''T GET OUT OF BED.
Jim
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Old 02-18-2003
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Products that are NOT marinized or marine grade that work

PeterPan,

I do agree that in most aspects the Marine Alernators are basically the same (though some might do a better job of powdercoating for rusting, but I have heard that can make for some extra heat build up - the death most alternators) The real difference is in the regulation. Most "good" marine set-ups have the capability of 3 Stage regulation which is VASTLY superior for a deep cycle battery to what anyone might have in an automobile. For Car or Motorboaters, who are running their engines all the time, that is fine. They have a simple 2 stage regulation charger (Which ''might'' put out too high a voltage for some Gell Cells). But to get the Most out a battery and charge time you need a good 3 stage regulation.

You can read a little about it here. But this information is repeating and verified at hundreds of sites ..http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/BatterIy_FAQ.htm#Battery%20Charging

Not saying that you couldn''t take a regular car alternator and add good 3 stage regulation (which you could look here http://www.amplepower.com/apps/alt_conv/index.html) But it seems like a lot of work and expense, plus you need to find a good alternator guy to figure out the wiring for you.
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