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Another broken screw thread (in wood)

6K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  poopdeckpappy 
#1 ·
Hi all,
I saw some old threads on this topic, but they focused more on corroded screws in metal. My problem is a broken screw in wood. Here's the deal:

I'm removing the 10' long handrails on our cabin top. The rest of the screws all came out fine, this is the only one, and it was broken before I got to it. All the screws were under teak bungs (now removed).

So the hole for the teak bung is about 3/4" - 1" deep, so that's where the top of the broken screw is. Then it's screwed into the wood in the handrail, through the deck, and into the core.

Any suggestions?
-J
 
#3 ·
Just did this exercise on my P35...

If the head of the screw is broken off, and the rest of the screws have been successfully removed, a slight back and forth rolling action combined with a strong upward pull should free the rail. You will be left with a stud that you can now remove with your visegrips.
 
#24 ·
use a plug cutter bit to cut around the screw, remove the rail and then epoxy in a plug.
The One way to remove the Broken wood screw bit is using Plug cutter Bit, and the other way is to use a small size Drill bit to clear off the Bit totally to insert the fresh or new one at the same place. The most impotent thing to remember is its better to choose a genuine company like "Mutualscrew and supply" to buy quality and wide range of wood screws. Hope this will be helpful for you guys.
 
#6 ·
Just a longshot, but... What if you bored oround the old screw with a plug cutter, then remove the wood inside the cut, revealing a good bit of the screw shank. Then try to grip it with needle nose vice grips, or if the plug cutter is long enough, bore all the way through to the fibre glass. Then fill the hole with a new plug and epoxy. Lots you can do, use your imagination.
Marc
 
#9 ·
I have a similar situation, but the bolt head broke off nearly flush with the wood surface (the actual interior wood, not the handrail).

I plan on using a dremel to cut a notch into the head of the bolt and then use a regular screw driver to simply un-screw it out. The advantage of this method is that if it comes out ok, then I can use the same hole when I re-install the handrail.

Perhaps you can get one of those vibrating cutters and get the vibrating cutting surface down into the hole far enough to cut a slot in the broken screw. Adding 3 parts patience, of course.

And you can use the vibrating tool for other things afterwards too. Like relieving that shoulder pain from all the work you are doing.

Regards,
Brad
 
#12 ·
If all else fails and you have enough diameter in the stuck scrwe try an "easyout". It's more common to use easyouts in a steel bolt. You drill a hole down the center of the bolt that you want to extract. You then screw in the easyout into the hole. The easyout is threaded CCW... opposite to the normal screw thread. It's like a screw tap but in the opposite direction. Once the easy-out is screwed in you can use it to unscrew the stuck screw as turning it in to pull out the stuck fastener only tightenes the easyout. Easyouts are available in most hardware stores.
good luck
 
#16 ·
If you do this method, make sure you drill a hole in the exact center of the screw you are removing. Use a punch or something. And drilling into steel isn't easy to start with.

I tried using one and was off center a bit, which is why I'm looking to cut a slot in the the top of the bolt so I can unscrew it.

Also, any pictures?

Regards,
Brad
 
#17 ·
There is a tool like a small hole saw, but longer. It cuts in turning left, grabs the screw and draws it out by friction. I don't remember the name. Try Googling "broken screw extractor". If you can spring the rail out at all, consider using a hacksaw blade to cut the screw at the seam.
 
#21 ·
There is made a screw extracter that fits in a drill and goes over the stub. Drill (turning backwards) with the tool until it grabs the screw and spins it out. It's kind of a backwards hole saw with internal teeth.

Good hardware store stuff. Or McFely's paper catalog. They wern't in the online catalog.
 
#23 ·
Ha ha! Fortunately, there was no need for major explosives!

For anyone who might be interested, I got the screw out this weekend. I did try using an extractor. I bought some a new set of decent quality, but it did not work. The top of the broken screw was too rounded, so the tool kept slipping off and wouldn't grab.

So I ended up just drilling around the hole a few times, and pulled the handrail out. I ruined the hole. However, there's space nearby to add a new screw hole and bung if needed. So the handrails are now at home ready for stripping, etc.

The really good news though is that I ended up using the new extractor the same day on a stripped screw for a completely different project. Soooo, I suppose it all worked out.

Of course, there is still much work to do!

Thanks again everyone for the tips.
-J
 
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