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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 03-13-2010
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take your time, and on relatively straight sections work on spaces as wide as your arm span. lay the tape out, gently press it down, step back to make sure it is straight before you burnish it. if you have a cruve to work with, lay down a guide edge using masking tape first. cut the masking tape as need to provide a guide line that follws the curve you want, then lay out your tape with an edge of the tape butting up against your masking tape guide. if you have to cut your stripe tape to allow the necessary relief to follow the curve, use a SHARP razor blade or olfa cutter, then overlap pieces and trim back the overlap. This is the really big advantage of tape over paint. If you screw up you can simply pull it off and start again.
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2010
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It hasn't come in yet so I haven't paid for it but I seem to recall the shop saying it would be around 60 bucks. That's for a 150ft roll of 1in wide tape.
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Old 04-14-2010
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Here is the finished project. I found 80 foot of tape at a local autographics place. It didnt turn out too bad, not exactly professional looking, but not too bad. I had my first sail of the season today.
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striping tape?-100_0145.jpg   striping tape?-100_0148.jpg   striping tape?-100_0150.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 04-14-2010
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looks pro to me!
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Old 04-15-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gershel View Post
What's the trick for geting a a smooth curve? I replaced my 2" stripe a few years ago, and as careful as I tried to be, I still got some slight waves.
Marc
Doing the longest sections possible as you work along. I used to do car pinstripes years ago and there is a learning curve. I never used the soapy water method for stripes, but did when I put on our hull lettering and it would probably make it easier for someone new to the process.

As for my technique, it is hard to describe, but I basically stick down one end, wherever you want to start. I then keep the tape taught, being careful not to over stretch, and pull the backing paper for a good length (for me, probably six to seven feet at a time). Then, keeping the tape away from the hull (you don't want it to stick until you are ready), sight down the length of the material until it follows the lines you want. Then, slowly bring it to the hull for initial contact. To follow the hull lines, you will need to raise/lower the tape as it is coming in contact with the hull. The longer the lead section you work with, the straighter your lines, and it will better allow for graceful curves along the hull. I keep pulling the backing tape as I move along, so that there is always several feet of tape ready to stick. When you get to the end, stick it down longer than the point you want to stop, then trim with a fresh razorblade.

I hope this makes sense (much easier to show in person than to write-up.).
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Old 05-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capttb View Post
In general, striping tape is a vinyl based general purpose material in that it is used for cars, boats, signs etc. Various manufacturers including 3M, I have some now from a company called Lilly. It comes in 150' rolls at about $75 US if I remember right. The hardest part of the job is removing the old tape, and it must be removed, I use a warm sunny day, heat gun, and new (fresh edged) disposable plastic putty knives. Start lifting the tape at a corner, you want it just warm enough to pull the tape off slow and gentle. Too fast or cold it snaps and you start over, too warm it melts or just comes apart. Then clean the remaining adhesive off with a solvent, denatured alcohol works.
You put the new tape on with a small squeigee (? you know what I mean) and a squirt bottle with slightly soapy water. The tape in first picture looks too light because it still has the backing tape on which you remove after it dries.
I've never had a problem with it coming off, and seems to last as long as paint in the sun.

What is the soapy water for?

Regards,
Brad
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Old 05-08-2010
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A little dish detergent in the water reduces surface tension and acts as a lubricant for a few seconds more "working time" and the squeegee slides a little smoother. However, having never done it without the soap I guess I can't say for sure.
That's how someone taught me to do it ages ago and since it worked I never thought to question it.
BTW your stripe looks excellent.
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Last edited by capttb; 05-08-2010 at 03:51 PM.
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