Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Deale, MD
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Like most threads on anchoring, there are a number of unstated take aways...
...in these excellent recommendations:
* The ratio of breaking strength varies with the material. About 5:1 for ropes, about 4:1 for chains, and 3:1 for bolts that don't move or bend. This is also effected by quality of manufacture (better QC means less safety margin is needed - the part is predictable). Typically, you want to match SWL.
* Look over key areas every time you use your gear. Are tie-wires in place? Are the splices good? Any cuts? Chafing gear, as needed?
* An anchor is only as good as the bottom and the set. Some anchors are better in some places and some are better in most places, but none are good everywhere, eg. shells or soft silt over very hard clay. You need to judge the bottom and your set more than any other factor. This involves experience and diving on the anchor to have a look, until you learn to correlate the feel up the line with what is on the bottom.
And keep your existing rig for a second anchor; some of those areas have big tides. But be aware that setting a second anchor takes some time to learn; there are many pitfalls that have given two anchor rigs a mixed reputation. The angle between the anchors is critical, both anchor sets must be good, and you must make provisions to avoid fouling your keel. A big "dumb" anchor and loads of chain suits most folks best, but if you have no windlass you will need to be more clever with lighter tackle.
(when asked how he reached the starting holds on a difficult rock climbing problem that clearly favored taller climbers - he was perhaps 5'5")
"Well, I just climb up to them."
by Joe Brown, English rock climber
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