Shore Power for Liveaboard Albin Vega 27

[StephenBrooks]

Insulating project begins on my Vega 27 Monday. After some researching I've decided on 3/4 inch Armaflex insulation glued to the hull down to the bildge for added value with 3m 90 plywood battens or stringers attached to hull with PL Premium adhesive. 1/4 inch gap for air circulation then plywood and white arborite. Seams will be covered by building a shelf on both port and starboard sides.

If anybody has better idea or concern about this method...please holler!

Question on shore power???

I've had an estimate of 2 weeks to wire boat for shore power. Probably translates into more than $5,000. is this reasonable? I plan to liveaboard here on the Fraser River at the marina for the next 8 years...all being well before setting sail for more distant and warmer lands. I want some comforts, especially AC unit for the companion way in the summer.

Thanks!!

Stephen
Albin Vega 27
Shelter island Marina

[btrayfors]

Depends on how you plan to heat. If you're thinking electric heat, you'll need at least one 30A line pretty much dedicated to heating. Reverse-cycle A/Cs draw a little less when heating, but are only efficient down to about 36-38F water temp. Some A/Cs, like the Flagship series, have an optional big electric coil for heating. Draws about 18A and works like a charm...I have two on my 42' sloop. Just one of them keeps the boat reasonably warm all winter, except for the really cold nights (under 20F and blowing) when I add a diesel-air heater (Espar).

If your electricity isn't completely reliable, you'll need another, or secondary, means of heating: stove, diesel-air, etc.

For your creature comforts....lighting, frig, batt. charger, TV, stereo, microwave, etc., one 30A circuit should be enough.

Assume you'll be cooking with propane. An electric stove would complicate things somewhat.

Two weeks and $5,000 labor sounds like it's in the ballpark. Be sure to do it right, with a licensed/certified marine electrician and top quality materials. This isn't something to cut corners on, IMHO.

Bill

[sailingdog]

Make sure you get testimonials from the electrician's previous customers. Just because they are licensed and certified, doesn't necessarily mean they're competent or conscientious.

[mitiempo]

You're in B.C., not Florida. The water is always cool and there is usually a breeze. If not a fan or 2 work well. Air conditioning is not necessary and is rarely seen around here. I have lived aboard for 14 of the last 20 years in B.C. and the bigger issue is keeping warm in the winter. What you will probably get from most marinas is a single 30 amp shorepower connection. You need a good AC panel, ideally a galvanic isolator, and some outlets. Electric heat can either be built in or portable but make sure you get one with variable heat output because if it is always at full power when on there will be times when the circuit can't handle full output. Either when you want to use a kettle or toaster or when everybody is dragging things down with their own heater.
2 weeks is an awfully long time to wire a 27' sailboat for shorepower in my opinion. As is $5000. No matter what you are likely to install on a 27' Vega it won't be that complicated.

[sailingdog]

I'm a bit curious as to why you're having an electrician wire the boat for shorepower. Doing this isn't exactly rocket science. Doing it yourself would allow you to trouble shoot the setup far more easily.

[scottyt]

i agree this could be a DIY project, and it could be done in a long weekend. 5k seems high unless its got a lot of union breaks

[btrayfors]

Problem is, we don't know what "it" is.

Depending on what's wanted/needed, "it" could be a long weekend job, or "it" could indeed be a 2-week job.

The size of the vessel is only one consideration. Cost and time are much more closely tied to defining "it".

Perhaps the OP could enlighten us as to exactly what he wants/needs/expects.

Also, is there existing wiring and/or electrical fittings to be pulled/tested/used? Do you really want A/C? What kind? How do you plan to heat in winter? What about a battery charger? Inverter? Hot water heater? What kind of loads do you expect to put on the AC system?

Bill

[tager]

****, for $4000 I will come wire your boat on my spring break!

It's not super complicated. You need to buy a shore power cord, (Probably 30A) and all the necessary converters if you plan to cruise to strange harbors.

A shore power receptacle.
A galvanic isolator (if you feel it is needed.)
A whole lot of duplex marine grade AC wire.
Some outlets.
A breaker.
One or two GFCI outlets.
Maybe even an electric heater

Some time.


Don't use acorn nuts and solid wire. That is all I ask.
I can't see materials for this job being over $2000 even if you buy the best.

[sailingdog]

Actually, what you need for this project is:

A shore power cord—30 Amp
A shore power inlet—30 Amp
A shorepower panel with doubled breakers for the main line coming in
A lot of TRIPLEX marine grade wire—duplex only has TWO conductors, AC requires THREE.
A GFCI outlet for each circuit

Optionally, you might want a galvanic isolater

If you let tager wire your boat, you'll be out a lot of money and have a boat that is likely to catch fire from the ignorance of the installer...

Originally Posted by tager

****, for $4000 I will come wire your boat on my spring break!

It's not super complicated. You need to buy a shore power cord, (Probably 30A) and all the necessary converters if you plan to cruise to strange harbors.

A shore power receptacle.
A galvanic isolator (if you feel it is needed.)
A whole lot of duplex marine grade AC wire.
Some outlets.
A breaker.
One or two GFCI outlets.
Maybe even an electric heater

Some time.


Don't use acorn nuts and solid wire. That is all I ask.
I can't see materials for this job being over $2000 even if you buy the best.

[mitiempo]

What sailingdog said.
He beat me to it. But an AC panel with a breaker for each outlet, charger, heater if permanently installed, and equipped for multi source if invertor is to be hard wired.
Something like the first if there is no invertor, the second if there is.