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post #1 of 12 Old 03-12-2010 Thread Starter
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Question Tinned Marine Wire

I am installing a windlass and other major electrical renovation on my CS 36T. I have come across Tinned Marine Wire as a potential cable supplier. Their prices seem very good, particularly with shippping north of the 49th.

Has anyone used their wire?

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post #2 of 12 Old 03-13-2010
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I haven't used their wire but it looks fine. Genuinedealz.com has very good prices as well and ships to Canada. They also do excellent crimps for $1.00 each which is hard to beat unless you have a good crimper. Make sure you use a heavy enough cable. Many windlass manufacturers recommend too small a cable for good performance - Lewmar being one. Here's a good link for the calcs. Just fill in the blanks a to get the answer. Best to go with 3% or less voltage drop. AWG by wire length/amps calculator

Also check out this site - Maine sail also has a CS36T
Compass Marine Project Articles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

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Last edited by mitiempo; 03-13-2010 at 12:15 AM. Reason: add
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-13-2010
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I've purchased from Genuindealz.com, they generally supply Pacer branded cable, it's good cable.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-13-2010
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I would call them to ascertain the brand of wire. Of the four big ones I prefer them in the order below (not including cost here, just workability and construction quality). I really dislike Cobra wire. It is stiff and becomes very difficult to work with in cold temps. The Berkshire is flexible and easy to work even in sub freezing temps. The Cobra jacketing also seems to get brittle quickly? Top quality builders like Morris Yachts & Lyman Morse use Berkshire.

Battery World in Portland, ME will ship it but you need to buy 100 ft min spools.

Genuine Dealz is very good and sells Pacer.

Sailors Solutions sells Berkshire too..

My preference order

Berkshire Wire
Ancor
Pacer
.
.
.
.
Cobra

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-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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post #5 of 12 Old 03-13-2010
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I'd second using Berkshire wire, though I buy from a different source than Maine Sail. The stuff is very flexible, and very high quality.

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-13-2010 Thread Starter
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I am planning to go with AWG 2 for the windlass based on a reportedly fine (by some)10% voltage drop. I may install a battery in the bow as well but am undecided. I am thinking the windlass will run at about 85 amps under normal load?

130 amp, 50’. @ 10%
10.75x130x50/1.2=58229 AWG2
CM=K x l x L / E

CM = Circular Mil area of Conductors
K = 10.75 (Constant representing the mil-foot resistance of copper)
I = Current - amps
L = Length - feet
E = Voltage drop at load (in volts)
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I'd go heavier and aim for 3% drop. Better performance as well as longer life for the windlass motor. That translates to 4/0. The area of 4/0 is over 3 times the area of awg 2. I'd at least go to 2/0.
I'd skip putting a battery forward as this would complicate your charging and better in my opinion to put the money into larger wire than charging devices. Besides a battery under the V-berth isn't a great idea I don't think.

Maine sail - opinion please.
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Last edited by mitiempo; 03-13-2010 at 01:03 PM. Reason: cor
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-13-2010
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It makes more sense to put another battery in the bow, then you have almost zero voltage drop.
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For a windlass, you really don't want a 10% voltage drop. It would probably make far more sense to install a battery forward and use a duocharge unit to keep it charged or to go with much heavier wire to provide a 3% voltage drop at a maximum. Providing low voltage to a windlass motor will shorten its lifespan.

BTW, from the lewmar windlass instructions:

Quote:
Check the voltage across the motor leads with the windlass on. (Proper voltage is 13.5 V. Constant low voltage will destroy the motor)

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Originally Posted by prior View Post
I am planning to go with AWG 2 for the windlass based on a reportedly fine (by some)10% voltage drop. I may install a battery in the bow as well but am undecided. I am thinking the windlass will run at about 85 amps under normal load?

130 amp, 50’. @ 10%
10.75x130x50/1.2=58229 AWG2
CM=K x l x L / E

CM = Circular Mil area of Conductors
K = 10.75 (Constant representing the mil-foot resistance of copper)
I = Current - amps
L = Length - feet
E = Voltage drop at load (in volts)

Sailingdog

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Last edited by sailingdog; 03-13-2010 at 02:50 PM.
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I disagree. In addition to the battery placement forward you won't save on cable. If you use an ACR the forward and main batteries will be paralled during charging therefore requiring a large cable as well. The Duo charge maxes out at 30 amps so you will still need 2 awg wire to maintain a 3% drop if you use one of these. If you were to use an Echocharge it would charge the forward battery with a maximum of 15 amps of current so the cable can be 6 awg for 3% drop. But by the time you buy the ACR, Duocharge, or Echocharge and glass in a tray for the battery with hold down straps as you should you might as well buy the heavier cable. It's easier and all you have to buy is the cable and a fuse to install in the line near the battery. And no battery to maintain and fit forward.

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Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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