Bottom Cleaning gear ?? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-12-2010 Thread Starter
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Bottom Cleaning gear ??

A 2nd stage regulator on 50' of hose, connected to the tank, any reason why that wont work ??, the 1st stage regs are way out there in cost just to clean a bottom

1955 Blanchard 51 Custom ( I got a woody )

Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change and Rum to accept the things I can't
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-12-2010
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Pappy.

The long hose is a fairly common alternative to a hookah rig. Given the expense of hose though, you may want to consider a shorter one than 50'. Even a 25' hose running to a tank in a dinghy tied alongside amidships will probaby give you enough reach to do your T37 one side at a time.

I'm kind of puzzled by your question though. The first stage of a regulator attaches to a tank, while a second stage is what goes in your mouth -- am I missing something?

Last edited by PorFin; 03-13-2010 at 07:48 AM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-12-2010 Thread Starter
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I was always under the belief the 1st stage was your primary reg thats goes into your mouth and the 2nd stage is the emergency type octo reg............hell, maybe I'm the one missing something..........like a clue


btw, good idea on the shorter hose and working amidship

1955 Blanchard 51 Custom ( I got a woody )

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post #4 of 17 Old 03-13-2010
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I'm not a diving expert but it's not the cost to clean the bottom, but the cost to breathe isn't it?

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-13-2010 Thread Starter
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No kidding, I can get a tank for next to nothing, I have most all the other gear and tools already, all I need to come up with is a air hose and reg;

Least expensive one I can find is a back up reg ( stage 2 or 2nd stage ?? ) for under a couple hundred, least expensive primary is around 450.00

1955 Blanchard 51 Custom ( I got a woody )

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post #6 of 17 Old 03-13-2010
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check out craigs list, i saw a complete set up with bc and tanks for 400. all you would need is a long hose, and an introductory diving class. that way you at least may get the card to fill the tanks easily.

i have seen second stage regs on CL for about a 100, just take anything used to a shop for a tune up

edit

there is a complete setup with wet suit, gauges, BC, and regs but no tanks on craigslist down near washington DC for 75

Last edited by scottyt; 03-13-2010 at 01:00 AM.
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-13-2010 Thread Starter
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you know, I thought of a intro dive lesson but I use to dive as a kid before a cert was required for air, I've been diving numerous time since without being certified, and after all, I'm just cleaning the boat bottom. My son who is out terrorizing SD this weekend with his GF has a advanced or rescue dive cert so I can get air refills, I just can't get any answers out him until they run out of money and return to the boat, which could be in 5 mins or 5 in days

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-13-2010
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The first stage is the part attached to the tank that reduces the pressure down from 1000s of psi to something around 100 psi. You would never breath from a 100psi flow and the tank empties in less than a minute. The second stage, in a modern single hose rig, goes in your mouth and further reduces this flow to ambient pressure, only allowing flow upon demand when the suction you create by inhaling pulls on a bladder.

The first stage typically has several ports to which you attach your primary second stage regulator, your octupus (or backup second stage) and a pressure gauge that is directly ported to the tank without restriction.

Personally, I would prefer to clean the boat with a BC jacket on, so I could create positive bouyancy and put some pressure against the hull. Otherwise, each time to press to rub, you only manage to push yourself away. If you have a BC, you might as well carry the tank.

Sounds like you understand the basic principals of diving. It would be all but impossible to carry enought air to remain long enough to saturate nitrogen in less than 10ft of water, so dive table calcs are academic. However, air compression is still meaningful and if you exert yourself while rubbing, hold your breath and ascend accidentally, you could rupture alveoli in your lungs. Just be careful and always exhale!
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-13-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
Personally, I would prefer to clean the boat with a BC jacket on, so I could create positive bouyancy and put some pressure against the hull. Otherwise, each time to press to rub, you only manage to push yourself away. If you have a BC, you might as well carry the tank.
On the other hand, if you are wearing a wetsuit (and I expect that in San Diego you will) then you're gonna have to wear weights to overcome the positive bouyancy of the neoprene. It's not going to compress to any appreciable extent in 6' of water. No matter what you do, you're going to be positively bouyant either with or without a BC. A BC is going to do little to counteract lateral pressure you develop as you scrub.

Most commercial bottom cleaners I've seen elect to go without a BC/tank and run a long hose.

Even in warmer waters, a light wetsuit with a hood will help keep most of the nasty crap that comes off of the hull from clinging directly to you and out of your hair.

Last edited by PorFin; 03-13-2010 at 07:47 AM.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-13-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopdeckpappy View Post
No kidding, I can get a tank for next to nothing...
Pappy -- RE a "next to nothing" tank. Before you fork over the cash, make sure that the tank isn't overdue it's hydrostatic test, which is required every five years (an internal visual inspection should be done every year.) When a hydro is done, the month/year are stamped into the tank. If the hydro's overdue, you're going to have to pay to get one done the first time you take it for a fill and it's going to run somewhere in the $30-$50 range. If it fails the hydro (although rare on a properly maintained tank), the tank will be condemned and you'll be left with nothing but a lighter wallet.
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