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  #11  
Old 03-14-2010
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LakePirate there are certain checks you can make to determine if it's working right.

In the cooling mode the intake and discharge water should be about 10 degrees warmer. The cooling air should be about 18 degrees cooler. these temp checks need to made at the cooling coil, not in the duct downstream.

In the heating cycle (just the reverse) the water in and out should be about 10 degrees cooler and the heating air around 18 degrees warmer.

In general, factory built units don't need refrigerant unless the system has been tampered with. Most problems do come from all the above things mentioned by others. Air flow, water flow are all the first causes.

Does the compressor run continuous when the unit is on? Or do you hear it short cycling? which can be controls, low or high pressures from too much or too little refrigerant. electrical probs.

Worse things that can happen are refrigerant break down due to very high condensing temps (caused by hot weather cooling and bad water or air flow. A stuck or partially closed reversing valve. compressor has bad valves. (gas bypassing)
hope this helps!
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  #12  
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Do you have a filter on the raw water loop for the heat exchanger? If so, how long since it's been cleaned or replaced? Mine has been on Lake Lewisville for about a year, and I just noticed the filter is looking a little "green". I assume the conditions are similar there.

OTOH, Didn't Texoma get a zebra mussel infestation in the last year or so?
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Old 03-15-2010
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I'll have to check the temps and filters this weekend. The air filter was clean, I did check that one. Since the water flow looked good I figured it wasn't due to water circulation, but I'll check those too.

Yes there were reports of Zebra Mussels but I don't think they have started causing problems yet.
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