Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Rep Power: 12
Personally, I'd recommend that you go up to 5/8" nylon for your rode. This is for two reasons. First, the rode's parts will all be more evenly matched in terms of working strengths. Second, a 5/8" rode gives you a lot more protection from chafe damage. BTW, I use a 5/8" rode on a boat that is about half the weight of yours.
On your boat, I'd think the 1/2" nylon was the weak point, not the cleats, unless the cleats are severely undersized.
Originally Posted by Waltthesalt
I sail a Cal 29. 8,000# unloaded. Here's the anchors and wind speed calcs:
Working Anchor: (to 30 kts) Bruce 10KG, (sand, mud, gravel)
Storm Anchor: (to 45 kts) Fortress FX 16 (sand, mud with flukes adjusted)
lunch hook kedge) Danforth 15# (sand, mud)
Back-up anchor: folding SS Northill (sand, gravel, rock, weed)
Tandem Anchors (theroetically to 80 kts. or surging) Fortress/Danforth I mad up a chain arrangement to do this.
Agree that Hinz is dated especially on anchor types with all the new anchors out there. It served the era of technology on my boat and was a good source for load/strenght/calculations. Id doesn't cover cleats all that well and I found out was that my cleats were the weak point in the system. When you check out shear stress for threaded ss bolts it's quite low. If you can get the cleat stress on the non-threades shank you can handle a lot more. The tables are hard to find. I put in a larger cleat with 4 larger diameter bolts and a pretty large 1/8" ss backing plate to cover the calculated stress.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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