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  #11  
Old 03-19-2010
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I sail a Cal 29. 8,000# unloaded. Here's the anchors and wind speed calcs:

Working Anchor: (to 30 kts) Bruce 10KG, (sand, mud, gravel)
Storm Anchor: (to 45 kts) Fortress FX 16 (sand, mud with flukes adjusted)
Stern Anchorlunch hook kedge) Danforth 15# (sand, mud)
Back-up anchor: folding SS Northill (sand, gravel, rock, weed)
Tandem Anchors (theroetically to 80 kts. or surging) Fortress/Danforth I mad up a chain arrangement to do this.

Agree that Hinz is dated especially on anchor types with all the new anchors out there. It served the era of technology on my boat and was a good source for load/strenght/calculations. Id doesn't cover cleats all that well and I found out was that my cleats were the weak point in the system. When you check out shear stress for threaded ss bolts it's quite low. If you can get the cleat stress on the non-threades shank you can handle a lot more. The tables are hard to find. I put in a larger cleat with 4 larger diameter bolts and a pretty large 1/8" ss backing plate to cover the calculated stress.
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  #12  
Old 03-19-2010
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Personally, I'd recommend that you go up to 5/8" nylon for your rode. This is for two reasons. First, the rode's parts will all be more evenly matched in terms of working strengths. Second, a 5/8" rode gives you a lot more protection from chafe damage. BTW, I use a 5/8" rode on a boat that is about half the weight of yours.

On your boat, I'd think the 1/2" nylon was the weak point, not the cleats, unless the cleats are severely undersized.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltthesalt View Post
I sail a Cal 29. 8,000# unloaded. Here's the anchors and wind speed calcs:

Working Anchor: (to 30 kts) Bruce 10KG, (sand, mud, gravel)
Storm Anchor: (to 45 kts) Fortress FX 16 (sand, mud with flukes adjusted)
Stern Anchorlunch hook kedge) Danforth 15# (sand, mud)
Back-up anchor: folding SS Northill (sand, gravel, rock, weed)
Tandem Anchors (theroetically to 80 kts. or surging) Fortress/Danforth I mad up a chain arrangement to do this.

Agree that Hinz is dated especially on anchor types with all the new anchors out there. It served the era of technology on my boat and was a good source for load/strenght/calculations. Id doesn't cover cleats all that well and I found out was that my cleats were the weak point in the system. When you check out shear stress for threaded ss bolts it's quite low. If you can get the cleat stress on the non-threades shank you can handle a lot more. The tables are hard to find. I put in a larger cleat with 4 larger diameter bolts and a pretty large 1/8" ss backing plate to cover the calculated stress.
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2010
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All good and valid points. My braided may be 5/8th and I gust didn't recall it without going down to the boat. As you point out as the rode ages and wears you need more of a margin. All the horror stories I've encountered that deal with rodes failing are due to chafing in a storm. While a heavier rode helps, chafing gear and being able to keep it in place and if necessary change it under load appears to be essential.
As for cleats I haven't heard of failures from anchoring loads. I just became aware of the possibility when doing the calculations. My installed cleats are two-bolt cleats on the gunnels which are great for mooring lines.
Where cleats have a record of failing is when towing. Either the bolts shear (first one then the other) or they pull out some of the deck. With a deck stepped mast I can't put a line there. I could rig a bridle to the winches but I went for a robust deck cleat instead one which also serves the anchors. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 03-20-2010
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Glad to help Walt.
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a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

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Old 03-22-2010
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My rule of thumb is two boat lengths of chain and 200 feet of rode proves to be good on the east coast, Caribbean, and the Bahama's
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