Newbie Advice for Wood Refinishing - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 25 Old 03-17-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daydreamer92 View Post
If I may also jump onto the newbie woodfinishing train and borrow a photo from my other thread, the exterior wood on my boat -- should I assume it's teak? -- looks like this:



I assume there would be no varnish left on wood that looks like this, if there ever was...?
Daydreamer,

Wipe the wood with water -- if it gets darker, then the finish is gone.

Just a guess here, but my first reaction to wood type was "mahogany." It's kind of hard to tell based on an end grain, but unless my eyes are fooling me (which they do more frequently these days ) I think I can see a bit of a checkerboard appearance on the face of the piece. Don't bet the farm on my guess though...

Have you thought about repairing the outer edge of your dropboard channel? If you do, you should tackle that before you put a finish on the wood.
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post #22 of 25 Old 03-17-2010
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Daydreamer,
Have you thought about repairing the outer edge of your dropboard channel? If you do, you should tackle that before you put a finish on the wood.
Yep, yep, that's on the List. This just happened to be the only picture of the exterior wood that I had handy.

P.S. It is teak -- everything outside is teak and inside is mahogany (Philippine Mahogany, per the surveyor). I took a closer look after your post the next time I was down and there is no checkerboard on the end.

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Last edited by daydreamer92; 03-20-2010 at 07:26 PM. Reason: More info!
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post #23 of 25 Old 03-17-2010
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Thanks so much Porfin, that helped a lot. I'll probably go the heat gun route, just one more trip to the hardware store.
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post #24 of 25 Old 06-01-2010
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I have recently acquired a sailboat with teak cockpit coamings and caprail. Previous owner had used cetol on it. The cetol is mostly gone on the sun-exposed areas but intact in the shaded ones. So one side of the coaming is almost all bare teak and other has substantial sections with intact cetol. Caprail tops are almost bare and sides are intact. Originally I was thinking of stripping the whole thing and applying varnish. I spent some time this weekend heat gunning till finish bubbles a little and scraping with a "red devil" scraper. After a couple of hours of this work, the enormity of the task has finally started to dawn on me. The scraped areas have a ghastly orange look and I am hoping it will go away with some weathering and/or chemical stripping. I am beginning to wonder if I can just salvage the current situation without resorting to wholesale stripping of the entire area.

My question is , can I just apply more cetol to the areas where its worn off or do I need to strip all the old stuff and then apply cetol or varnish from bare wood ?

Also I plan to paint the deck non-skid with Interlux brightside with silica sand sprinkled in. Should I do the wood first or the deck paint first ?

Thanks,

Junaid
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post #25 of 25 Old 06-01-2010
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Semco for teak

I've done most (if not all) of the above processes over the years and refuse to put that kind of effort and time into my exterior teak anymore.

I removed and sanded all of my teak down to bare wood one more time this spring. I will be applying a product called Semco Teak Sealer in the coming days. Next spring (and every spring thereafter) I should be able to wash my teak with soap and water and apply another coat using a foam brush or rag.

Teak Care

Last edited by oomfh; 06-01-2010 at 04:01 PM.
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