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post #1 of 6 Old 03-21-2010 Thread Starter
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Just got lucky

Needing more storage, I decided to move the head intake from under the Vee Berth to a settee locker. Now that it's out I see the ball valve was a Home Depot type with an internal tapered thread on both ends (no real corrosion in fresh water) but there was a inch long crack on the side of the body. Looks like the PO did not drain for winter storage. Aside from the fact it was just screwed onto a thru hull. It looks like it was a disaster waiting to happen.

I have ordered a Groco flanged adapter base and a new ball valve. Will make a fiberglass backing plate to install in the new position.

Now that I have a 1" hole to repair under the Vee Berth I will ask the common question.

Do I grind 12:1 on both sides, or outside only then put a couple layers of glass on the inside. Have read Don Casey's book and the West System Fiberglass repair guide, but I am still hearing different opinions.

Plan to use epoxy and glass, starting with large circles and working smaller.

Also if the repair is done from one side (which would be the thickest repair), can I continue to laminate the whole repair or should I go half way, let cure, then continue.

David
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-21-2010
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doing it from both sides is stronger. if you dont have room you can do it from ust the out side
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post #3 of 6 Old 03-21-2010
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If you've got good access, working from both sides is a far stronger way to do it. I would not let the epoxy fully cure, but apply the next layer after the epoxy has cured to the point it is still tacky but firm. If it cures much past that point and you're using an epoxy like West Systems, you may have a problem with amine blush forming.

I'd recommend you get your epoxy from epoxyproducts.com and the fiberglass from fiberglasssite.com. I've had very good experience with both of these vendors, especially paul at epoxyproducts.

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post #4 of 6 Old 03-21-2010
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There is an alternative if the conditions are favorable. If the hull is thick enough and the hole is small enough you can just hollow out the inside, wet it with epoxy and fill the hole with fiber thickened epoxy. You end up with a plug that cannot come out. I used a drill with a round rasp bit but a dremel would work too. This worked great for me on one boat where the hull was about an inch thick and the hole about the same. AND it was not in an area prone to impact. Other wise what the others have said is best.

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post #5 of 6 Old 03-21-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replys,

I do have some west system epoxy, is it a non blush epoxy??

If not I will order from epoxy products.

Thanks
David
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-21-2010
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West epoxy isn't non blushing. But that isn't a problem if you lay each successive layer on before the last sets hard. I've been using West for over 20 years with no problems. If it sets all you have to do is wash with a scotchbrite pad and a bit of water to remove blush. If you use a non blushing epoxy and let it set you'll have to sand before the next layer anyway. But if you add layers while the previous is still tacky no sanding is required between layers.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour

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