Plywood Anchor?

[71Irwin32]

Not that kind!

The beginnings of the cabinet that'll hold my VHF and Stereo. I like this epoxy work. This wasn't easy for my first attempt at this type thing, but not bad. A bit more plywood, epoxy...some sanding, and paint and it'll match the ceiling, will be enclosed and right next to the companion-way. I've already hung most of my own weight on it...won't have any trouble holding up.

[71Irwin32]

Two more pieces and it's starting to make sense, but that's it until I glass these sides in.

[Maine Sail]

You also could have used Weld Mount studs.. Total time about 4-6 minuets waiting for it to cure..

[Joesaila]

Maine, you always come up w some great suggestions! I'm going to look for those.

[71Irwin32]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

You also could have used Weld Mount studs.. Total time about 4-6 minuets waiting for it to cure..

You're missing my whole point. The way I'm doing it, it'll blend in and look like part of the original building. The wood will be encased in epoxy and painted.

[sailingdog]

Be aware the WeldMount stuff is great, but a bit pricey... One of the companies I work with uses it for their fabrication, so I get it from them at a decent price...but it is still pricey.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by 71Irwin32

You're missing my whole point. The way I'm doing it, it'll blend in and look like part of the original building. The wood will be encased in epoxy and painted.

I understand that. You still could have made it look original, but also removable, done it many times as most builders do.

The only difference is that the cleat could have been held in-place by four studs then the seam between headliner and furniture could have been finished in any number of ways while still allowing the piece to be removed for access at a future date. I just don't personally like to attach something to the overhead of the cabin in case deck access is needed in the future. If that port light needs to be replaced, and you can't find the exact match because the folks who made it are long gone, and the new one uses an internal flange you'll be having a tougher time modifying that piece in-place than if you could remove it and modify it..

Matching the factory gelcoat, and blending it, will be more difficult than using a caulked seam, piping or a small piece of painted trim to hide the transition..

Just different thought processes that's all..

[merc2dogs]

Maine you do have a point, those weldmount studs are a great tool. But if there is no reason to ever remove it, why make it removable? Especially when making it removable is going to add to the cost?

Also, on a curved surface as shown, you would still need to glass in blocks to align the weldmount studs, or make the holes oversized so alignment wasn't critical.

Only thing I'd have done differently than 71irwin would be to bring the sides down a bit farther, then extend the bottom and face a bit to cover the instruments and add a place for cd storage on that side, and maybe a whatever shelf on the bottom

Ken.

[71Irwin32]

Originally Posted by merc2dogs

Only thing I'd have done differently than 71irwin would be to bring the sides down a bit farther, then extend the bottom and face a bit to cover the instruments and add a place for cd storage on that side, and maybe a whatever shelf on the bottom

Ken.

Um-didn't want to take up any more room 'round the common-way...and no cds, I picked a stereo that uses sd flash cards for mp3s. It will be interesting to see how well the sd cards hold up.

...

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by 71Irwin32

It will be interesting to see how well the sd cards hold up.

...

Considering I have had a few of my SD cards go through the washer and drier in a pocket, and still worked, and are still working just fine, I'd vote that you should have no problem in a stereo..