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Old 03-30-2010
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Windlass wiring

Doing the final hook ups on a Lewmar Pro 1000 on my Tartan. I was wondering how to hook up the cables to the battery. I have 3, 12 volt batteries for my house bank so do I hook up the ground to say battery 1 and the positive to battery 3 or does it matter as long as the ground is on the ground of a battery and to positive is on one of the three positive terminals?
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Ideally, you'd want to hook up the ground to the last of the three paralleled batteries and the positive to the first...so that all three are loaded as equally as possible by the windlass.

However, I do have to ask, why are you wiring the windlass directly to the batteries? It should be going through a switch and circuit breaker or fuse.

Also, how far is the run from the battery bank to the windlass and what size wire did you use? Undersizing the wiring to a windlass is a very common error and greatly shortens the life of the windlass.
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I forget what size I ordered from Genuinedealz but they were huge and I have about a 3 amp drop based on the chart on the web site. The cable size is larger than 1/2 inch close or equal to 3/4 and pretty expensive. They do go through the breaker supplied by Lewmar but they also have to go to the batteries. I'll attach them as you recommend, Thanks.
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2/0 that was the size
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I hope you meant a 3% drop, not a 3 amp drop.
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Ideally you will have all the battery grounds going to a busbar and then to the engine ground point. Multiple grounds can cause problems. The windlass has a breaker but should also have a dedicated switch near the batteries. Even with a breaker if it shorts out and turns itself on damage can occur before the breaker goes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Ideally you will have all the battery grounds going to a busbar and then to the engine ground point. Multiple grounds can cause problems. The windlass has a breaker but should also have a dedicated switch near the batteries. Even with a breaker if it shorts out and turns itself on damage can occur before the breaker goes.
The windlass has to be the largest amp draw with the probable exclusion of the starting batteries, and perhaps not since the starter is only "on" for short periods, while raising an anchor can take a few minutes. ANd the starter is not usually on the house bank.

If connecting to a bus bar (which sounds like a good idea IMHO), the cable from the bus bar to the negative terminal has to be thick. Otherwise it will raise the voltage of ground.

Regards,
Brad
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Old 04-01-2010
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Saildog1: I will be going thru exactly the same process on my Pearson 365 in a few weeks. Lewmar Pro Series 1000 wired to the house bank (via the supplied circuit breaker, rocker switch and contactor box. I'll be ordering the wire, also, from Genuinedealz based on the recommended sizing-for-length-of-run chart in the windlass' manual. Any pitfalls I ought to be aware of before I start?
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dave
This is a good calc to use for wire size. AWG by wire length/amps calculator
Best to size for 3% or less drop for long windlass life and more efficiency. Manuals suggest 10% is ok but 3% is a lot better.
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I found genuinedealz was the cheapest and it is all tinned wire. I bought everything from them to wire it up and made my own cables also. I borrowed a rather large crimping tool from our diesel mechanic where I work. Running the cable is the toughest part of the job. I have a Tartan 3800 and was able to follow the air conditioner lines to the bow. There is a chart on the genuinedealz site to determine the size of cable to use. I raun a string from the batteries to where I mounted the contactor in the V berth and then from the contactor to the anchor locker. I also mounted a 1/4 inch backer plate under the windlass for serious support.

I'm lucky to have mechanics where I work to let me use their crimpers and have them make ke up backer plates. They do great work.
I also bought the wireless remote for the windlass. I splash next week and will give it all a try. I bought the windlass at Defender.
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