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post #1 of 10 Old 04-01-2010 Thread Starter
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trailer repair

I've got a trailer for a hobie 18 I would like to tow with boat from ct to Annapolis.
Have to make it safe first of course.

I think is says 4.8-08 on the tire. Is that the same as the tires below.
Is the Galv worth the extra? These are wm part numbers

480 x 8B Bias 4 Ply, 5-Bolt, Galvanized Finish 5344429 16520 Only $69.99 USD In Stock

480 x 8B Bias 4 Ply, 5-Bolt, Painted Finish 5344452 16570 Only $54.99 USD In Stock

I'm pretty sure the tires are shot they are so cracked but hold air.
The bearings look ok but I figure I should repack and replace seals.
How about the springs and ubolts?

I'm not sure how far I should go in rebuilding the trailer.


P4010002.jpg picture by davidm203 - Photobucket

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post #2 of 10 Old 04-01-2010
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David,
I'm not sure about the diff. between galv vs painted wheels but you do need new tires - 3 of them.
That lee spring and U bolt do not inspire a whole lot of confidence.
I would shop around anywhere but WM and try to get a deal for the tires and trailer hardware as a package.
The last trailer tires I got from a small chandelry in Huntington (Compass Rose) and they were $50 a piece, mounted and inflated for free.
Have fun on the Chessy.

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post #3 of 10 Old 04-01-2010
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David,

Jack up each wheel, one at a time, and give it a spin. If you hear any sound (grinding, clicking, ticking, etc) it is time to replace the bearings. Might as well do both even if one sounds okay. If both spin silently you may still want to repack with fesh grease.

The tire sizes seem compatible, but just to be certain bring one with you when you go to buy its replacements. You have to take them off to replace anyway, so might as well do it in advance.

Don't forget to check the lights and wiring.

Finally, pick an easy route around NYC like Tappan Zee to the Parkway. No point in risking it over the cratered surface of the Cross Bronx Expressway.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-02-2010
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New tires are a must, those are dry rotted and will fail blow out in dramatic fashion.

Also, to test wheel bearing, jack up the tire off the ground, then grab the tire on the top and bottom and rock it back and forth. If there is excessive play, remove, clean and repack the bearings, or replace them. For a small trailer, just replace them they're cheap.

And for tires, you may be able to find them at Tractor Supply Company. They have a website and local stores. They also have trailer hardware and accessories. No affiliation.

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post #5 of 10 Old 04-02-2010
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I will post some bearing gone bad photos tonight

You really need to take apart any trailer that has gotten wet launchig a boat

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post #6 of 10 Old 04-02-2010
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Why not replace just the tires?

As far as wheels go, go galvanized, since they are going to get wet. If you are going to replace the wheels AND tires, replace all THREE wheels and tires. Go to any trailer or RV store and you will have no problems getting bearings etc. If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, or a harbor Freight, they should have what you need as well.

How are the lights? make sure the brake lights and directionals work, and work every time.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-02-2010
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I would recommend shopping someplace other than WM. Whenever I need new trailer tires, I just go to the local tire shop. There are trailer specific tires but you can use any old car tire as well. Trailer tires are designed for tracking while car tires are designed for traction as well but you shouldn't be able to tell the difference on something that light. You also don't need the exact same size tires, you need something that fits the rims that you are using and will fit inside the fenders but that is it. I would recommend taking a wheel and tire to your local shop and having them replicate it. The most important thing is going to be the stud pattern for the wheel.

As mentioned above, the bearings should definitely be checked. If they are not any good and you try to drive, you should know when the wheel locks up as soon as the bearing gets warm. If this happens, don't fret, they usually free up again once they cool down so you can crawl to the next exit ramp.

Have you checked the lights? If they are not working, usually the easiest way to get them to the point where you can go on a roadtrip is to buy one of the lighting kits sold at Walmart and bolt it on. You can install a kit like this in 15 minutes and it is legal provided the trailer isn't big enough to need marker lights.

Also, it is worth checking leaf springs, the axle, and the coupler for rust. It is never fun to have any of those break on the road.

Good luck.
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-02-2010
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What always happens is the rear seal area rusts and lets in water



If it is you speedi-sleeve it



But you get tiny pits



Then NOT so tiny pits



Then full blow failure

While you will feel full blown you will NOT feel tiny

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post #9 of 10 Old 04-05-2010 Thread Starter
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Tom you are telling me something important. I sense it. But I'm so far beyond the curve I'm not getting it.

What is a speedy sleeve? Is it a good thing or a bad thing?

The second picture looks more shinny than the first. Is the second one fixed? How?

I've used trailers before but all newer models with automatic grease injectors so this old-school stuff is new for me.
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-06-2010
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On ALL things with wheels the rear seal is the weak point for water as its out of sight out of mind

In picture 1 the NOW rusty area with the groves is the sealing area which will no linger SEAL and allow water dammage to the rear bearing





Picture 2 shows a spedi-sleve which cost 40 bucks each BUT gives a smooth Stainless steel surface and will keep out the water

You axel may fine BUT i have found even on NEW trailers its badly done and something to check when you pull the wheels


If the bearings are good and the seal area looks good just clean it up and your good to go

If you find problems this is a good cure as the axel does not cost much BUT all the parts you have to cut off add up

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