Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape - Page 13 - SailNet Community
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post #121 of 375 Old 06-24-2011
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Hmmm...I thought I read on one of these threads that a mastic tape with
Polyisobutylene or Polybutylene was the ticket, so when I saw that on 3m's site thought i was home free.

It is wound on wax tape also, which seemed to be one of the other things to look for.

It is nothing like rigging tape though, which makes me wonder if we are talking about the same thing? It basically forms a pliable gasket material that is self-fusing - would be a mess as rigging tape.
Good thing I didn't go to far with.
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post #122 of 375 Old 06-24-2011
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I just finished my deck work for the season. A little later than I intended. I used Bed-it on all fastenings thru the fg deck. Great stuff to work with as well good at its job. No mess!!! Forgiving!!! Easy to control!!! Good stuff!

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post #123 of 375 Old 08-18-2011
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Awesome!

Thanks for this, restoring a 1973 Newport and this bedding knowledge is valuable!
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post #124 of 375 Old 08-26-2011
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I am working on a much abused Galilee 15 and needed this badly. Thanks!
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post #125 of 375 Old 08-28-2011
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Using Butyl Tape

Call me old fashioned but I have always used a tap to put in a thread that suits the bolt that is to go through the deck. This has served several functions over the years. If a nut has fallen off due to vibration the bolt is still working on the threaded fibreglass. Also many of the whole were waterproof prior to adding any sealant what so ever. In the days of silicon sealants, I only required a smidgeon to obtain a water-proof seal. Also if I had to remove a fitting I can do it by myself as the bolt is bedded into the fibreglass and the nut is an added extra bit of security. Generally the nut screws off without a screwdriver holding the head of the bolr above decks. No more tempers being frayed yelling to my wife to move the spanner below while I use the screw driver above the deck. Gone are the days of "No not that bolt, the next one!" when undoing the jib track nuts. Hope this makes sense.

Is this overkill when bedding deck fittings using butal? Are there any legit reasons other than saving time (not that tapping a thread takes a great deal of time) not to tap the hole first and then use butal to obtain a waterproof finish?
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post #126 of 375 Old 09-10-2011
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Bedding deck hardware with butyl tape

I'm a lead carpenter at Morris Yachts and would like to make sure we're clear on one of the points made in this article: although we do use the countersunk hole method when bedding all exterior fixtures, we have never used any type of butyl tape as permanent bedding for any pupose whatsoever, deck hardware or otherwise. All deck hardware on all Morris Yachts is bedded in 3M 4000 because it is UV resistant and removable if need be. Wooden brightwork items such as toerails, coaming caps, dorade boxes and wooden handrails are bedded in Sikaflex because it bonds better with wood than 4000.

I do realize that the article never states that we bed deck hardware with butyl tape at Morris; I just want to point this out to avoid any possible confusion.

Thank you for an excellent article and for giving credit to the true professional boatbuilding companies that care enough about their boats and appreciate their customers enough to always go the extra mile.
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post #127 of 375 Old 09-10-2011 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Morrisrules View Post
I'm a lead carpenter at Morris Yachts and would like to make sure we're clear on one of the points made in this article: although we do use the countersunk hole method when bedding all exterior fixtures, we have never used any type of butyl tape as permanent bedding for any pupose whatsoever, deck hardware or otherwise. All deck hardware on all Morris Yachts is bedded in 3M 4000 because it is UV resistant and removable if need be. Wooden brightwork items such as toerails, coaming caps, dorade boxes and wooden handrails are bedded in Sikaflex because it bonds better with wood than 4000.

I do realize that the article never states that we bed deck hardware with butyl tape at Morris; I just want to point this out to avoid any possible confusion.
This is why I was clear to not say that you guys used butyl. Just making the point of how critical the countersinking is and that most TOP QUALITY builders like Morris take the extra step to do it right.. Heck with proper countersinking Silly Putty might bed deck hardware....

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Thank you for an excellent article and for giving credit to the true professional boatbuilding companies that care enough about their boats and appreciate their customers enough to always go the extra mile.
And you guys certainly do go the extra mile!! There are sooo many hidden "details" in a Morris that a customer will never see yet you guys still don't skimp or cut corners.

Have you guys tried Sika 295UV? It is a nice low adhesion PU sealant that is more easily removed than UV4000 and seems to yellow less for me than UV 4000? Would be interested in your thoughts.

Oh and butyl is also very UV resistant, the butyl on our 1979 CS-36 is 32 years old and still just as it was then, and it is actually more easily removable than UV 4000.. Of course it is more labor intensive in your environment than tube caulks..


Oh and I like the user name. Morris does rule...

P.S. Please don't refer to yourself as a "carpenter" you are a true craftsman and artist. I hire a carpenter to build a deck..

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 09-10-2011 at 04:40 PM.
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post #128 of 375 Old 09-10-2011
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post #129 of 375 Old 09-10-2011 Thread Starter
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shipwright
Shipwright is also good but I've seen these guys work and I still prefer "artist"..

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post #130 of 375 Old 09-10-2011
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It is difficult to express in a job title the subtle and complex nature of the craftsmanship of a ships carpenter.

Unless one has tried it with one's own hands.......
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