Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

[WildJasmine]

Originally Posted by chrisncate

I hear you MS, but when you have the right stuff (actual grey butyl- not one of the other variations - I am completely aware of the variants that sit on the same shelf as butyl), it is the same. I have held both your butyl and "mine" in my hands and compared the two, and what I buy is 100% identical.

If it isn't identical, it's probably not actually labeled as grey butyl - it's probably one of the similar variants that sits on the same shelf. A lot of people don't know what they are actually looking at when shopping for butyl for the first time.

Fwiw

Yeah, I have bought it from rv supply stores and mobile home parts manufacturers. Typically these stores have 4 to 5 different kinds of grey butyl tape on their shelves. Each good for different applications.

I personally like the kind that can stretch and has the consistency of chewed gum. Some grey butyl tape is more like a playdoh-ish consistency and doesn't stretch well.

Like he said if you get the right stuff its all the same. I buy mine for under $6 for a 30 foot roll.

I personally will never go back to curing sealants.

[sweetsailing]

MS or others,

I read this entire thread and MS's instructions and I am not certain this question was ever fully answered. I am looking to rebed hardware (stanchions, cleats, etc) on a teak caprail. I intend to strip the old varnish/cetol off and bring the teak back down to bare wood. (needs to be refinished anyway) I like the idea of using Butyl tape. Can I use Butyl tape on teak? Am I better off rebedding the hardware with Butyl tape onto bare wood and then apply cetol? Or should I apply cetol first and then rebed with Butyl tape?

Thanks

[chrisncate]

You can use butyl on teak, and everything else above the waterline.

Apply finish first, then install (whatever you're installing). No raw wood.

Any chance I can talk you out of Cetol in favor of Schooner Gold?

[meljabro3]

We just bought 2 rolls! thanks for inspiring my wife to get started in the re-fit of our boat!

What would you suggest when re-bedding lexan windows?

[chrisncate]

The same, imo butyl is great for everything above the waterline.

UNLESS your portlights don't through bolt and you can't "crank them down" and make the butyl ooze out for a proper seal and trim. What type of portlights/Lexan windows do you have exactly?

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by meljabro3

We just bought 2 rolls! thanks for inspiring my wife to get started in the re-fit of our boat!

What would you suggest when re-bedding lexan windows?

If not through bolted butyl used as a shim the Dow 795 or Sika 295UV (with special primer) used as the "bond". I run butyl around the inside edge and the sealant the outer edge. The butyl makes a perfect shim for the sealant and also acts as a back up seal..

[i_amcdn]

Still waiting for my new windows. Like meljabro describes below "are lexan plastic bolted over cutouts. There aren't any frames or anything, just the lexan".

They are thru bolted with barrel nuts likes these:
Beckson Barrel Nut

1. I was going to just use the butyl tape. Do I need to use a 2nd sealant as well?
2. are there better screws than the barrel nuts that I should use? Should I use bolts with nuts and washers instead? There is not a lot of room on the inside for large washers. Too large and the washer would extend into the window cutout area.

Thanks.

[meljabro3]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

If not through bolted butyl used as a shim the Dow 795 or Sika 295UV (with special primer) used as the "bond". I run butyl around the inside edge and the sealant the outer edge. The butyl makes a perfect shim for the sealant and also acts as a back up seal..

Actually I'm thinking that they're called deadlights? I'm not sure though.
My windows are lexan plastic bolted over cutouts. There aren't any frames or anything, just the lexan

[i_amcdn]

Pics of my Edel 22 window cutouts after lexan was pried off.

You can see that the bottom holes were drilled a tad too close to the edge.

I should probably have ordered the new ones non-drilled and created new holes in new locations but the new lexan is coming drilled with the same holes as the old ones.

Do I need sealant in addition to the butyl tape?

Thanks

[Rhapsody-NS27]

Thanks for all the info in this thread. I recently removed teak handrails to refinish and rebed. I was deciding on whether to use butyl or lifecaulk for rebeding. Looks like I might go with the butyl. Lots of good info here.
Thanks again.