Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 393 Old 04-06-2010
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It isn't strong enough to work with plastic ports that are frameless, which shouldn't be screwed or through-bolted to the cabintop, due to thermal expansion issues.
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Originally Posted by Freesail99 View Post
For port lights, I think butyl tape is perfect as it forms a nice flexible gasket. I see no difference if the frame is metal or plastic as far as butyl tape is concerned.

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post #22 of 393 Old 04-07-2010
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Quote:
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Stuff under the water line, through-hulls near the water line, and anything that may be exposed to significant amounts of fuel, like the diesel deck fill, should also not be bedded using Butyl, since butyl dissolves in petroleum products.
So what is the preferred sealant for through-hulls?

Last edited by Faster; 04-08-2010 at 09:09 AM. Reason: fixed quote
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post #23 of 393 Old 04-07-2010 Thread Starter
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So what is the preferred sealant for through-hulls?
Polyurethanes like Sika 291, 3M 4200 or a Polysulfide like Boat Life Life Calk..

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post #24 of 393 Old 04-07-2010
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Quote:
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Polyurethanes like Sika 291, 3M 4200 or a Polysulfide like Boat Life Life Calk..
Thanks MS

Since the boat stores all carry 4200 and do not carry butyl for small jobs what it the biggest downside to using 4200 for deck bedding in a pinch?
I know it cures so you have to get the part bolted down before it drys.
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Last edited by davidpm; 04-07-2010 at 11:37 PM.
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post #25 of 393 Old 04-08-2010
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Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Thanks MS

Since the boat stores all carry 4200 and do not carry butyl for small jobs what it the biggest downside to using 4200 for deck bedding in a pinch?
I know it cures so you have to get the part bolted down before it drys.

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post #26 of 393 Old 04-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Thanks MS

Since the boat stores all carry 4200 and do not carry butyl for small jobs what it the biggest downside to using 4200 for deck bedding in a pinch?
I know it cures so you have to get the part bolted down before it drys.
David,

4200 is the product I usually use too. I know it's good at what it does, but I hate the mess it can make if you're not really careful. And also the problems/cleanup it creates if you need to remove hardware. Too bad the chandleries don't make butyl tape available.


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post #27 of 393 Old 04-08-2010
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My experience with butyl tape - sticky and messy!

Last season I bedeed my traveler track, along with other stuff, with butyl tape. I made a few mistakes and caused myself some problems, which I am now fixing.

First, I ran the butyl tape all along the bottom of the track, which was not necessary. At the time I figured "why not?" Here is why. After the traveler was fully tightened, I removed the excess oozed tape, but I could not get it all. Some spots were hard to access, because of where my traveler is mounted, but other spots that were accessible still always had a very small bead of the tape there.

During the season, it remained sticky, and collected all kinds of dirt and junk. This dirt and junk then got into the traveler cars ball bearings, which of course screwed up the operation of the traveler. I just learned all this the other day, when I removed the damaged traveler from the boat to repair it.

I may go with a marine sealant that cures and so does not remain sticky when it goes back, but I may also use butyl tape again. If i do, it will go only where the holes are. I'll probably use less of it and maybe not put to across the full width of the track.

The upside was that it didn't leak even a drop, which is why I am considering using it again. I am thinking its better for chain plates, cleats and such, and less so for tracks that have things rolling across them.

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post #28 of 393 Old 04-08-2010
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Jarcher—

Butyl tape is fine for tracks, but you do need to remove the excess properly.

I wouldn't recommend doing just the fastener holes, as that can lead to water collecting under the traveler, and if it freezes, you could get screwed. A cotton swab, like a q-tip, moistened with mineral spirits will often allow you to remove stuff that is difficult to access areas.

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post #29 of 393 Old 05-14-2010
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What about using butyl tape on the chain plates that previously had silicon chalk? I tried removing as much of the chalk as possible, but the butyl tape still doesn't seem to want to stick the that chain plates themselves or the covers that screw on. Is there a trick from getting the adhesive action of the tape to work with previously siliconed metal, or should I not worry and just bolt them down?

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post #30 of 393 Old 05-17-2010
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Thanks for the great post!

I bought some butyl tape from the mobile home website and used it last weekend puting my boarding ladder back on. It worked great and I didn't have to wory about dripping goo all over the freshly panted transom.

Thanks again.
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