Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape - Page 32 - SailNet Community
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post #311 of 398 Old 12-29-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

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Originally Posted by justonemoreproject View Post
I am bedding various pieces of countersunk hardware on a wooden deck: jib tracks, pad eyes, stanchions, etc. But I am unable to follow Mainsail's tutorial because the bolts are threaded through the deck and so I have to turn the head of the screw in order to screw it through the deck to seat it…which scrapes off the butyl as it seats in the hardware.
Should I enlarge the bolt holes in the deck slightly so that the bolts can be inserted with out turning them?

Does any of your deck hardware use backing plates? Are there metal plates inserted into the decks that are tapped for the bolts?

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post #312 of 398 Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

Thanks for responding Mainsail.
The deck hardware I am rebidding only has fender washers and not backing plates.

There are no metal plates inserted in the deck. Just wood, nuts and washers.
Thanks!
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post #313 of 398 Old 12-29-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

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Originally Posted by justonemoreproject View Post
Thanks for responding Mainsail.
The deck hardware I am rebidding only has fender washers and not backing plates.

There are no metal plates inserted in the deck. Just wood, nuts and washers.
Thanks!
I'd suggest going on drill larger with the holes so you can tighten the nuts without twisting the bolts too much..

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post #314 of 398 Old 12-30-2013
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

I forgot that some of the higher load deck hardware like the main sheet block are mounted in the deck with "sex" bolts.
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post #315 of 398 Old 12-31-2013
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

CORRECTION
My mistake, ALL of the deck hardware except for the stanchion bases, does NOT just go through wood. There are metal sleeves in the deck that bolts thread through before nuts are threaded on inside of the hull.
So, how should I bed with Butyl in that situation?

The exception are the stanchion bolts. They do not thread into a metal sleeve, they thread through wooden beams and then are secured by nuts inside the hull. They get a lot of strength and movement is inhibited because they are threaded through into the wood of the deck. Should those be drilled to help seat with butyl?

Thank-you for your advice.
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post #316 of 398 Old 01-17-2014
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

Got my butyl tape from Maine Sail promptly. Now it is time to re-bed one chain plate. Water is coming in from this location, but it seems to be clear (no brown goo). However, the water is coming in and some of it is working its way to the back of the cabin. I have read so much on this subject that my head hurts. There is no way that I can completely dry out the area prior to the epoxy repair at this time. The flat plate on deck is held down by four screws (somewhat loose- easy to turn with a screwdriver), and by one horizontal pin. Would it be possible to perform a temporary repair by doing the following:
1- remove the turnbuckle and plate
2- clean and plug the area generously with butyl tape
3- reinstall the hardware, with the horizontal pin holding everything in place
Can I get by with this until next winter's haul-out?

1977 C&C 27 MKIII
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post #317 of 398 Old 01-17-2014
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

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Originally Posted by FirstCandC View Post
Got my butyl tape from Maine Sail promptly. Now it is time to re-bed one chain plate. Water is coming in from this location, but it seems to be clear (no brown goo). However, the water is coming in and some of it is working its way to the back of the cabin. I have read so much on this subject that my head hurts. There is no way that I can completely dry out the area prior to the epoxy repair at this time. The flat plate on deck is held down by four screws (somewhat loose- easy to turn with a screwdriver), and by one horizontal pin. Would it be possible to perform a temporary repair by doing the following:
1- remove the turnbuckle and plate
2- clean and plug the area generously with butyl tape
3- reinstall the hardware, with the horizontal pin holding everything in place
Can I get by with this until next winter's haul-out?
Your short term repair will work to stop water ingress, but don't forget it is a bandaid and will need complete attention down the road. The plate with 4 screws is a chainplate hood intended to provide a larger sealing surface as well as C&C's commitment to making everything look right. When is winter haulout for you? We've been out since late October, launch in late May.
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post #318 of 398 Old 01-17-2014
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

Thanks.
Leaving mine in this winter, haulout likely around Thanksgiving this year. Bought the boat last March, and didn't get to start sailing it until June. Want to do the temporary repair, because I want to sail it this winter. Supposed to be 60 degrees on Monday!

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Last edited by FirstCandC; 01-17-2014 at 08:20 AM.
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post #319 of 398 Old 03-08-2014
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

How about using the epoxy over the tape?


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post #320 of 398 Old 03-10-2014
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Re: Bedding Deck Hardware With Butyl Tape

Although Maine's web page illustrations are wonderful, I keep finding myself forced to do installations that don't quite line up with his instructions.

Mostly my problem is hardware where you can't wrap butyl around the head of the bolt or screw because the hardware is very tall, and far off of the deck.

For example, I have teak grab rails on the inside and topside of the boat, that sandwich the cabin top between them. The bolt head is on the INSIDE of the cabin, in the interior grab rail, it penetrates the cabin top, into the topside grab rail, and into a threaded insert in the top of the topside grab rail.

The best I could do, was snug them down close to the cabin top surface, and wrap butyl around the bolt as best I could, and then finish snugging the grab rails down.

This is not optimal, because the bolt rotates, disrupting the bond of the butyl tape that is wrapped around it. (which is why I get things partially bolted, and close to the cabin top before applying the tape.)

Still, it seems to work and I have not had any leaks. I have a few such installations, and this is frustrating.

S/V Old Shoes
1973 Pearson 30 #255
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