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  #71  
Old 02-09-2011
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While I have no idea if any yards use butyl, CS was one manufacturer that used it extensively. My CS27 has butyl on all original deck fittings as well as the hull/deck join. No leaks and still flexible after 33 years. The only leaks my boat has had are with new fittings not using butyl and the chainplates which have silicone on them as well so that is not original. I recently removed my forehatch for replacement. Not because the butyl was bad as it didn't leak but the hatch was falling apart and the lens/frame seal needed re-doing.
Mainesail's boat is also a CS - a CS36T.
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Last edited by mitiempo; 02-09-2011 at 01:06 AM.
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  #72  
Old 03-07-2011
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Thanks for an excellent article, Maine Sail!

I'll be servicing the winches and replacing the grab and toe rails on my boat in the next few weeks, therefore my reading of your advice is very timely. The rails show no signs of leaking on this 30 year old boat, so I'll ask the builder how they bedded them originally.

The port glazings have leaked, and the glazing needs replacement. The PO attempted caulking to seal, likely with silicone. I don't think the frame to hull joints leaked, I'll have to check. Butyl tape with bedding spacers sounds like the ideal re-glazing method, just like the high-rise windows use. (Stress between frame and glazing is a major cause of failure there)

A thought on aluminium fittings and stainless fasteners, as raised by casey1999. Two possibilities spring to mind, First, smear the butyl over the fastener thread length that resides inside the fitting. Second, would Teflon plumber's tape over the threads through the fitting and just a little longer than the thickness of the fitting, provide adequate galvanic isolation? I'm sure the isolation will be there, and that's easy to test using the continuity setting on a multi-meter. Since the cleat base isn't tapped, the tape would be intact. But would it affect the butyl bedding? Has anyone tried using plumber's tape for this, or might I be the first? (and or foolhardy experimenter, if I have to re-bed mixed metals) For a blind-fastened fitting with SS fastener into aluminium fitting, tape might work; another option might be an anti-seize or low strength thread-locker coating, but the plumber's tape is at least not at all messy.

ps. Don't know of too many fittings that use blind tapped holes...

Last edited by knotted; 03-07-2011 at 12:55 PM.
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  #73  
Old 03-07-2011
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Originally Posted by knotted View Post
Has anyone tried using plumber's tape for this, or might I be the first? (and or foolhardy experimenter, if I have to re-bed mixed metals) For a blind-fastened fitting with SS fastener into aluminium fitting, tape might work; another option might be an anti-seize or low strength thread-locker coating, but the plumber's tape is at least not at all messy.

ps. Don't know of too many fittings that use blind tapped holes...
Much easier solution to dissimilar metals issues. Use TefGel !!
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  #74  
Old 03-07-2011
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Now that's a really interesting product, Maine Sail It would solve so many problems in one brush stroke! Not only prevention of galvanisation action, but it has anti-seize and anti-capillary actions too.

I don't know too much about this aspect, but I understand that torque specs for fasteners drop from those for a dry friction state, i.e. un-lubed, to a lower number when the fastener is 'wet' or lubed, to prevent over-stressing or stretching of the fastener. Is there any data on this?

Last edited by knotted; 03-08-2011 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 03-22-2011
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Does anyone know if Sika lastomer is the same as butyl? Has anyone tried using it on their boat? It comes in rolls and the colour is grey. It doesn't seem very sticky compared with the black stuff I've seen. The idea is to use it to seal bolted portlights (not used as an adhesive). Thanks in advance.
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Last edited by copacabana; 03-22-2011 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 03-23-2011
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I've no experience, yet, with any bedding material. But a quick review of the Sika website found this: "SikaSeal® and Sika Lastomer® butyl-rubber based products seal seams, cavities of various material substrates and their combinations. SikaSeal® and SikaLastomer® are available as performed profiles or in bulk, with or without expansion capability." I've no idea how it compares with Maine Sail's butyl tape.

If you use it, follow all of Maine Sail's recommendations, they are so logical and simple. Then tell us how it worked out!
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Old 03-24-2011
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Thanks Knotted. I had seen that on the Sika site, but as there seems to be a number of different butyl tapes (black, white, tan, grey, automotive etc.) I was wondering if this Sika stuff was the right stuff. I ended up buying a box of 24 rolls of the Sika stuff as it's the only one I could find in Brazil (expensive!!). I'll try it out and get back to the forum with the results.
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Old 04-11-2011
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Thanks MS for the thread. I'm ready to start using the stuff. Made an Amazon order today. I'll start out with the new front cleat Saturday morning.

Then, the other little repairs needing to be done.

EDITED TO ADD: Last weekend I installed a new bow cleat on my boat. I'm very pleased with Butyl tape and the install job. My two live-a-board friends now are convinced that Butyl tape is the best thing since sliced bread, and they've borrowed some to use on their respective boats. Found a local RV supply place for a good source, as well as Amazon.

Thanks Maine Sail. Everything on my boat will eventually be re-mounted with Butyl tape.
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Last edited by carl762; 04-22-2011 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 04-27-2011
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Butyl the way to go?

I took off some teak to refinish, and as you can see there are some screw holes. Wondering if butyl tape is the way to re-install the screws, or do I need to do a full-on rebed -- drilling a bigger hole, filling with epoxy, then drilling the correct size for the screws, etc.

I see some spider cracks, so if using butyl tape, I should first bevel the holes a bit?

Thanks



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Old 04-27-2011
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Butyl is a good choice for sealant, as is Sika Flex 291 or 3M 4200. If the deck is cored you should overdrill and replace it with thickened epoxy in way of the fasteners. Countersinking the holes is important as well. Whatever sealant you use, when the fasteners are tightened it leaves a thin layer under the item. The countersink around the fastener holes creates an "O" ring of sealant where it is needed most. And it only takes a few minutes to do.
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