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  #81  
Old 05-03-2011
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Brian and others:
What type of "thickened epoxy" would you recommend?
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  #82  
Old 05-03-2011
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Epoxy first mixed well and then thickened with colloidal silica to a sloppy peanut butter consistency (smooth not chunky ).
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  #83  
Old 05-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoWet View Post
Brian and others:
What type of "thickened epoxy" would you recommend?
A little "how do ya do it?" right here.
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Old 05-08-2011
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I will be removing and replacing some deck/hole bolts. These are bolts that physically hold the hull to the deck. Would butyl tape be the right thing for this job or do I need something with some strength to prevent the two parts from shifting laterally?
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Butyl is good for a hull/deck joint. The bolts will hold it whichever sealant you use - all the sealant does is keep out water.

My hull/deck joint and all other deck hardware is leakproof after 34 years and it was all factory bedded with butyl. The only problems I had were from previous owners not doing things properly.

All CS sailboats were factory bedded with butyl.
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  #86  
Old 05-17-2011
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Use Butyl on varnish?

A friend has a lovely wooden boat. We were refinishing the mast and found rot under one of the forestay mounts. It's basically a stainless strap that is screwed and through bolted to the front of the wooden mast. I suggested using Butyl tape to seal it after the repair, as whatever they used before obviously didn't work! I provided a link to this thread. I thought surely, given the tackiness of the tape, it would adhere to varnish. However, he brought up an interesting point.
"I re- read the article on Butyl tape and decided not to use the product because it would be sitting on a newly varnished surface. Varnish off-gasses volatiles for several weeks after it is applied. The volatiles are the thinners we would use for cleaning up the tape residue. The illustrations in the article featured hardware going onto gelcoated surfaces. Bottom line, I was worried about the gap, and the compatibility of the butyl tape and the thinners in the new varnish."
I don't think the 1/8" gap is a problem and have used paint thinner to clean up excess Butyl, but wondered about the off gassing.
Thoughts?

Last edited by L124C; 05-18-2011 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L124C View Post
A friend has a lovely wooden boat. We were refinishing the mast and found rot under one of the forestay mounts. It's basically a stainless strap that is screwed and through bolted to the front of the wooden mast. I suggested using Butyl tape to seal it after the repair, as whatever they used before obviously didn't work! I provided a link to this thread. I thought surely, given the tackiness of the tape, it would adhere to varnish. However, he brought up an interesting point.
"I re- read the article on Butyl tape and decided not to use the product because it would be sitting on a newly varnished surface. Varnish off-gasses volatiles for several weeks after it is applied. The volatiles are the thinners we would use for cleaning up the tape residue. The illustrations in the article featured hardware going onto gelcoated surfaces. Bottom line, I was worried about the gap, and the compatibility of the butyl tape and the thinners in the new varnish."
I don't think the 1/8" gap is a problem and have used paint thinner to clean up excess Butyl, but wondered about the off gassing.
Thoughts? 1

I have same type question. I was going to use the Butyl to bed teak wood on the deck, but if I use a teak or or Penofin oil will that destroy the Butyl bedding?
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re: I have same type question. I was going to use the Butyl to bed teak wood on the deck, but if I use a teak or or Penofin oil will that destroy the Butyl bedding?

I had a similar issue. I coated the bottom of the wooden block to be bedded with 2 coats of West System epoxy. That waterproofs it, and prevents compatibility issues with the butyl. Kind of "belts and suspenders".

Chuck
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Old 05-17-2011
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The off gassing after the varnish is "handling dry" should not pose an issue. Wet varnish will but once the solvents have evaporated off to the point where you can touch it and it feels dry it should not hurt the butyl. It may however prevent the varnish from further curing. I would not recommend it over varnish until it is cured which can take a couple of weeks to fully harden.

As for teak and teak oils they are all slightly different. Test some teak oil on a small piece of butyl tape and see if it softens it. Some teak oils don't have any effect and some do.

I have varnished many teak items bedded with butyl and it had no long term effects but you do want to varnish carefully as varnish contains solvents that can soften butyl.

If you're concerned about solvents such as some teak oils a polysulfide like Life Calk is a good option.
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  #90  
Old 05-18-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
The off gassing after the varnish is "handling dry" should not pose an issue. Wet varnish will but once the solvents have evaporated off to the point where you can touch it and it feels dry it should not hurt the butyl. It may however prevent the varnish from further curing. I would not recommend it over varnish until it is cured which can take a couple of weeks to fully harden.
He used Dolfinite instead of Butyl. I don't know anything a about Dolfinite, but it seems to me that anything you use to bed the hardware will isolate the varnish from the air, thereby terminating the cure of the varnish. I wonder if it matters, as the job of protecting the wood usually performed by the varnish has been taken over by the sealant and hardware. If it does matter, I would think you would need to let the varnish cure before reinstalling hardware, regardless of the bedding material used.

Last edited by L124C; 05-19-2011 at 01:45 PM.
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